Port Askaig is little more than a hotel, shop (with ATM), petrol pump and ferry pier, set in a picturesque nook halfway along the Sound of Islay. There are two distilleries (with a third on the way) within reach and ferry connections to the mainland and Jura, just across the strait.
Three miles southwest, lush meadows swathed in buttercups and daisies slope down to reed-fringed Loch Finlaggan. This bucolic setting was once the most important settlement in the Hebrides, the central seat of power of the Lords of the Isles from the 12th to the 16th centuries.
Buses between Bowmore and Port Askaig stop at the road junction, from where it's a 15-minute walk to the loch.