The largest waterfall on the Yellow River (黄河; Huánghé) and the second largest waterfall in China (only the Huangguoshu Waterfall in Guizhou province is bigger), Hukou Waterfall is sometimes associated with neighbouring Shanxi province, though it can be seen from the Shaanxi side at this point where the Yellow River cleaves the two provinces. The waters of the Yellow River are constricted at this point, being pinched between the mountains, so they gush at speed. Buses run from Yan’an (return ¥81).
The volume of water varies according to the time of year, with greater and more dramatic flows during the heavier rains and water flows from April to around October. Winter can also be a photogenic time to travel, when the you get to see a sparkling and frozen ice fall instead.
A shuttle bus (¥30) takes you from the tourist centre drop-off to the falls themselves. Try to avoid public holidays when it can be very busy indeed.