Kastoria is a wonderfully quiet town on Lake Orestiada, with a pretty old town jutting from the hilltop. Enveloped by the lake, most activities naturally happen on and around its still waters – locals power walk (or cycle) the 9km circuits of the lake, and you can admire preening pelicans and darting ferruginous ducks (no binoculars required) as you have a coffee or drink in one of Kastoria's lakeshore bars.
Climb up and around Kastoria's steep and winding old town lanes and you'll find a surprising wealth of post-Byzantine churches. You might have to ask the tourist information kiosk to allow you to go inside.
Fur sellers are still the main point of commerce, harking back to Kastoria's enrichment through the fur trade; the city's name comes from kástoras meaning 'beaver'. Today the furs are imported.