Tiny Tonnerre is full of surprises. The ancient Celtic spring at its heart is pure magic, and the recently opened Chevalier d'Éon museum, devoted to one of France's most colourful 18th-century figures, makes this a worthwhile detour for anyone passing near. Beyond the town's less inspiring outskirts, the surrounding Tonnerrois vineyards produce some excellent wines, and a pair of nearby châteaux offer a glimpse of the region's engaging Renaissance history.
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