The beautiful but literally divided island of Mana is about 90 minutes northwest of Denarau. It’s home to two upmarket resorts – Mana Island Resort and Tadrai – and a couple of hostels next to the village on the southeastern end. A fence, and occasionally a guard, separates the Mana Island Resort bure-bunnies from the dorm-dwellers, and signs throughout the resort warn ‘nonguests’ that they are not welcome. For their part, the budget spots and their restaurants welcome everyone.
Fence or no fence, the beaches are (mostly) open to all. Walking around the island isn’t really an option because of rocky points on the coast, but there are a couple of 20-minute hikes to Sunset Beach and to a lookout. There’s plenty of fish-gawking to be had anywhere off the beach, and decent coral off Sunset. Check out the south-beach pier for a night snorkel; the fish go into a frenzy under the wharf lights.