Welcome to the outback. As much a place of the imagination as an actual place, the outback goes by many names, among them the 'Back of Beyond', the 'Never Never Land' or simply 'the Bush'. At its core, it refers to that Aussie realm of Indigenous homelands and traditional lands, frontier towns and a horizon that never seems to end. There is no official definition of where the outback begins and ends. Some say you'll know it when you see it. One local reckons that you know you've left the outback when passing motorists no longer greet each other with a wave. It can be reduced to one simple formulation: this is the big-sky essence of Australia.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Outback Northern Territory.
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Spectacular Katherine Gorge forms the backbone of this 2920-sq-km park, about 30km from Katherine. A series of 13 deep sandstone gorges have been carved by the Katherine River on its journey from Arnhem Land to the Timor Sea. It's a hauntingly beautiful place and a must-do from Katherine. In the Dry the tranquil river is perfect for a paddle; in the Wet the deep still waters and dividing rapids are engulfed by an awesome torrent that churns through the gorge.
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The gigantic granite boulders piled just east of the Stuart Hwy, 105km south of Tennant Creek, are known as the Devil’s Marbles (Karlu Karlu in the local Warumungu language) and they’re one of the more beautiful sights out here. The Marbles are a sacred site to the traditional Aboriginal owners of the land, who believe the rocks are the eggs of the Rainbow Serpent. On 27 October 2008 ownership of the land was returned to their care.
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Reached off the Stuart Hwy 40km north of Katherine and a further 20km along a sealed road, Leliyn is an idyllic, safe haven for swimming and hiking. The moderate Leliyn Trail (2.6km loop, 1½ hours, medium) climbs into escarpment country through grevillea and spinifex and past scenic lookouts (Bemang is best in the afternoon) to the Upper Pool, where the moderate Sweetwater Pool Trail (8.6km return, three to five hours) branches off.
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Run by the Australian Wildlife Conservancy (AWC), this ground-breaking wildlife reserve 136km south off the Tanami Track covers 2620 sq km and is on the front line of attempts to save Australia's native wildlife. By building a fence to keep out feral cats, foxes and other species that have killed countless native mammals and birds, AWC has been able to reintroduce numerous endangered native species. Camping ($10 per person, cash only) is possible, as are self-guided tours of the sanctuary.
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Just off the Carpentaria Hwy, 46km south of Borroloola, this fine nature reserve is good for wildlife – including euros (wallaroos), agile wallabies and water goannas – and birdwatching (prize species include the Gouldian finch, Carpentaria grasswren and sandstone rock-thrush) and plays an important role in many Aboriginal Dreaming stories. But Caranbirini is also remarkable for the drama of its sandstone spires and pinnacles – this is the most accessible of all of the 'lost-city' rock formations for which the area is renowned.
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A vast and rugged landscape, this 9608-sq-km national park is in the heart of tropical savannah country and appeals particularly to fisherfolk and 4WD enthusiasts. This is home to some of the most striking sandstone-escarpment country in southern Arnhem Land and the 'lost cities' – upthrusts of rocky pinnacles that are simply spectacular and worth exploring on foot. For an aerial view, contact Heartbreak Hotel along the Carpentaria Hwy.
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Pungalina–Seven Emu represents a groundbreaking collaboration between the Australian Wildlife Conservancy and local traditional owners, merging wildlife conservation with a working cattle station in an area rich in coastal rainforest, mangroves, eucalyptus woodlands, wetlands and thermal springs.
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This relaxed art centre on the main road through town showcases work by artists from the four different Indigenous-language groups in the area: the Yanyuwa, Garrwa, Marra and Gudanji peoples. Utterly unlike the dot-painting styles of the Western Desert or the bark paintings of Arnhem Land, the paintings here have a style all their own, with a more figurative approach.
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Noted for its stunning sandstone formations, beautiful desolation and rock art. Pamphlets detailing walks are available at the start of the excellent trails. Don't miss the rock-art walk (5.5km return, two hours) near Jarnem and the gorge walk (3km return, two hours) at Jinumum. The park entrance is just 3km from the WA border. You can reach the park's main points by conventional vehicle during the Dry.