Outback Northern Territory

Welcome to the outback. As much a place of the imagination as an actual place, the outback goes by many names, among them the 'Back of Beyond', the 'Never Never Land' or simply 'the Bush'. At its core, it refers to that Aussie realm of Indigenous homelands and traditional lands, frontier towns and a horizon that never seems to end. There is no official definition of where the outback begins and ends. Some say you'll know it when you see it. One local reckons that you know you've left the outback when passing motorists no longer greet each other with a wave. It can be reduced to one simple formulation: this is the big-sky essence of Australia.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Outback Northern Territory.

See
Nitmiluk National Park
Spectacular Katherine Gorge forms the backbone of this 2920-sq-km park, about 30km from Katherine. A series of 13 deep sandstone gorges have been carved by the Katherine River on its journey from Arnhem Land to the Timor Sea. It's a hauntingly beautiful place and a must-do from Katherine. In the Dry the tranquil river is perfect for a paddle; in the Wet the deep still waters and dividing rapids are engulfed by an awesome torrent that churns through the gorge. Plan to spend at least a full day canoeing or cruising on the river and bushwalking. It can get crowded in peak season. Nitmiluk Tours manages accommodation, cruises and activities within the park. The traditional owners are the Jawoyn Aboriginal people who jointly manage Nitmiluk with Parks & Wildlife. The park was handed back to the Jawoyn in 1989; 'Nitmiluk' means 'Place of the Cicada Dreaming'.
See
Newhaven Wildlife Sanctuary
Run by the Australian Wildlife Conservancy (AWC), this ground-breaking wildlife reserve 136km south off the Tanami Track covers 2620 sq km and is on the front line of attempts to save Australia's native wildlife. By building a fence to keep out feral cats, foxes and other species that have killed countless native mammals and birds, AWC has been able to reintroduce numerous endangered native species. Camping ($10 per person, cash only) is possible, as are self-guided tours of the sanctuary. Camping here is open from April to September. The sites are unpowered, but there are toilet and shower facilities with drinking water. Although some sections of the sanctuary are off-limits while conservation works continue, options for exploring include 300km of trails (information sheets and interpretative notes are available). Short birdwatching walks and escarpment lookout points are also accessible. Part of the Great Sandy Desert, Newhaven belongs to the Ngalia Warlpiri people – a successful native title land claim was finalised in 2010. AWC works in close partnership with the traditional owners, and many of those employed here come from the local community. Landscapes are varied, from rocky desert massifs and sand dunes to salt lakes, clay-pans, spinifex plains, and mulga and eucalyptus woodlands. These varied habitats have long provided shelter for species such as the black-footed rock-wallaby (one of 27 mammal species) and the great desert skink (one of 83 reptile species), as well 170 different types of bird. Once nonnative predators have been removed from the area, AWC hopes to introduce 11 nationally threatened or endangered species such as the mala (otherwise known as the rufous hare-wallaby, currently extinct in the wild) and the golden bandicoot.
See
Elsey Cemetery
This lonely cemetery under the eucalyptuses is a poignant footnote to We of the Never Never, with so many of the larger-than-life characters from the book buried here, among them Aeneas Gunn (alongside a memorial to his wife), Henry Peckham, John MacLennan and Tom Pearce. The last remains of the homestead (destroyed during roadworks in the 1940s) lie 300m to the south near the end of the gravel track. The cemetery is around 20km south of Mataranka and signposted off the Stuart Hwy.
See
Ghunmarn Culture Centre
The Ghunmarn Culture Centre, opened in 2007, displays local artworks, carvings, weavings and didgeridoos from western Arnhem Land. The centre also features the Blanasi Collection, a permanent exhibition of fabulous artworks by renowned artist David Blanasi and other elders from the western Arnhem Land region; the high-tech multimedia display for some paintings is excellent. Call ahead to check that it’s open. You can buy full-size digital reprints of some paintings.
See
Katherine School of the Air
Listen into a class and learn how nearly 200 kids, from preschool to Year 9, are educated in areas where there is no physical school. The tour, run by staff members, takes you on a fascinating journey behind the scenes into the logistics of how things work in what is sometimes called the world's biggest classroom; it gives a real feel for the place. Booking ahead is recommended, especially for groups. Open during school terms two and three.
See
Top Didj Cultural Experience & Art Gallery
Run by the owners of the on-site Katherine Art Gallery, Top Didj is a good place to see Aboriginal artists at work. The cultural experience is hands-on, with fire sticks, spear throwing, painting and basket weaving, and is a somewhat more dynamic take than many staged Indigenous encounters for travellers.
See
Warlukurlangu Art Centre
The community arts centre Warlukurlangu is a locally owned venture representing over 150 artists working primarily in acrylics. It's one of the longest established art centres in the Territory. It's always worth ringing ahead to let them know you're coming.
See
Old Victoria River Crossing
Signposted off the Victoria Hwy on the north side of the road, the original river crossing is simply magnificent. You'll need a 4WD to get all the way, but you can get close in a 2WD vehicle and then walk down to the river.
See
Leliyn
Reached off the Stuart Hwy 40km north of Katherine and a further 20km along a sealed road, Leliyn is an idyllic, safe haven for swimming and hiking. The moderate Leliyn Trail (2.6km loop, 1½ hours, medium) climbs into escarpment country through grevillea and spinifex and past scenic lookouts (Bemang is best in the afternoon) to the Upper Pool, where the moderate Sweetwater Pool Trail (8.6km return, three to five hours) branches off. The peaceful Sweetwater Pool has a small campground; overnight permits are available at the kiosk. The main Lower Pool − a gorgeous, mirror-flat swimming lagoon − is a quick 150m dash from the car park. The Parks & Wildlife campground next to the car park has grassy sites, lots of shade, toilets, showers, a laundry and facilities for travellers with disabilities. Fees are paid at the kiosk, which sells snacks and basic supplies. Nearby is a picnic area with BBQs and tables.