Forget Hollywood fripperies, Madagascar is like no place else on earth. We've cherrypicked four unforgettable things to do in this truly unique place.
Trek the rainforest and take a hot tub
Parc National de Ranomafana is known for its hot springs and lemur-inhabited rainforest. Head out at dawn for a guided trek in search of the beautiful bamboo lemurs. Later, cross a spindly bridge over the village's huge gushing river to find a line of hot tubs in little rooms. Once submerged in the piping hot water, you relax you instantly. Stay at the wonderfully friendly and low key La Palmerie hotel for home-cooked banana crepes drizzled in chocolate and the chance to meet Dadalira, an 106-year-old local man who has lived through the country's most dramatic highs and lows.
Breakfast Malagasy style, and haute cuisine too
The French left a lasting impression when they colonized Madagascar. There are croissants everywhere. Dine Malagasy style at a hotely, one of the slightly dingy roadside establishments, serving up stacks of fried dough balls (mofobols) and super sweet coffee with condensed milk. Other choices will include deep-fried bananas and rice cakes. It's hardly fine dining, but the people watching and hospitality make the experience priceless.
On the other end of the culinary scale, you'll find La Varangue, a highly regarded restaurant in Antananarivo. Master chocolatier Lalaina Ravelomanana, who was recently voted among the world's top five chefs has created a menu to die for, including a taster menu and mains such as grenadine zebu steak with apple cannelloni, a mystery item called explosion du chef and, of course, lots of lovely chocolate. Eat out on the veranda over looking the city or in the stylish interior decked with intriguing relics.
Simplicity and a lakeside safari
At Camp Bandro at Lac Alaotra, you can glide across the island's largest lake in a dug out canoe at dawn in search of the gentle bamboo lemur or Bandro. As the sun comes up, your guide pushes through the thick reeds into what looks like planet Pandora. Papyrus shoots up around you, and the grey bamboo lemurs never fail to charm. It's not easy to get here – it takes twelve hours in a minibus taxi on bad roads – but it's worth it. The camp itself consists of two basic bungalows in stunning garden of roses and includes three delicious meals a day, a bucket shower and access to the lake every morning.
Meet Mother Nature's most curious creatures
There are four national parks in Andasibe's rich rainforest, so wherever you are, you can hear the eerie call of the island's largest remaining lemur species, the Indri. Stride through the thick rain forest and look up to find the huge monochrome creatures high above your head. Spot fat, green Parson's chameleons and the bizarre giraffe-necked weevil. Take to the quiet Mitsinjo forest for a night walk to hear the frog chorus and spot minute mouse lemurs. For a closer look, visit Vakona Lodge's lemur island, a sanctuary for rescued lemurs that once lived in captivity.