Your first view of Gialos is unforgettable, with its neoclassical biscuit- and ochre-hued buildings gathered aristocratically around what is perhaps the world's prettiest harbour. Fishing boats bob in water so perfectly clear they look as if they're floating on thin air, sponge salesmen hawk their weird-shaped treasures of the deep, while a few world-class boutique hotels and restaurants invite the attention of the occasional Hollywood star arriving in a gleaming super-yacht.
Plant yourself at one of the many tavernas and cafes along the quayside, making sure you try the island's celebrated shrimps. The basilica and clock tower punctuate the edge of the harbour where you catch and disembark from the ferry. Wander away from the sea to find backstreets spilling with fruit stores, ice-cream parlours and aromatic bakeries.