Chalus & Noshahr

The once attractive twin towns of Chalus and Noshahr now simmer in a shroud of vehicle fumes from the relentless traffic snarl. There's little for the traveller here other than to take the spectacular Chalus–Karaj road, which hairpins its way dramatically across the Alborz Mountains. But the new motorway bypasses Chalus, so you're actually better off staying in Ramsar or Kelardasht, both prettier, more laid-back options.