This 4km-long beach is by far Sihanoukville’s most popular. The rocky strip at the northwestern end is a happy, easy-going travellers' hang-out known as Serendipity Beach. At the atmospheric resort bar-restaurants here, waves lap just a few metres from the tables – very romantic, especially at sundown and in the evening. East of the pier, a string of beach-bars rim the white sand. This is a good place for happy hour, but during the day becomes packed with vendors, beggars and other nuisances.

Escape the mayhem by walking 2km to 3km down to the much cleaner southern section of the beach. The complexion of Ochheuteal will change dramatically if local authorities implement a plan to evict all beachfront businesses, with any new development required to occur at least 50m from the shoreline. Plans also call for high-end resorts to be built at the isolated southern end.