Three kilometers past the crab statue on the Remedios road lies this former sugar mill (decommissioned in 1998), which is now a museum. Of the four preserved sugar mills in Cuba, it's probably the best. On the campus, you'll find potted histories of slave culture, the sugar industry, and pre-diesel locomotives. There's a video of Cuba's sugar industry, models of figures toiling to harvest the product, and lots of original machinery. A guide talks you through the process and dispatches gratis guarapo (sugarcane juice).
An added bonus is the extensive collection of locomotives (the place is also known as the Museo de Vapor, or Museum of Steam), featuring Latin America's largest steam engine, and there are steam train rides daily.