The most famous attraction in Uutapi is the former South African Defence Force (SADF) base, which is dominated by an enormous baobab tree. This tree, known locally as omukwa, was once used to shelter cattle from invaders, and later used as a turret from which to ambush invading tribes. It didn’t work with the South African forces, however, who invaded and used the tree for everything from a chapel to a coffee shop.

To reach the fort, turn left at the police station 350m south of the petrol station and look for an obscure grassy track winding between desultory buildings towards the conspicuous baobab.