Things to do in Bergen
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Torget Fish Market
For price and atmosphere, it’s hard to beat the fish market. Right alongside the harbour and a stone’s throw from Bryggen, here you’ll find everything from smoked whale meat (Nkr349 a kilo if you can live with your conscience) and salmon to calamari and chips (Nkr130), fish cakes (from Nkr89), prawn baguettes (Nkr45), local caviar and, sometimes, nonfishy reindeer and elk. Stallholders are usually happy to make up a take-away platter or prepare a sealed bag to take home.
reviewed
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Escalon
Tapas has taken Bergen by storm and no-one does it better than Escalon. The friendly young waiters are happy to make suggestions on wine selection and the tapas are tasty and the closest you’ll find in Bergen to what you’ll get in Spain. Highly recommended.
reviewed
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Kvams Flisespikkeri
Paintings, block prints and other artworks by Ketil Kvam adorn this lovely Bryggen gallery, with a range of cheaper prints available up to original artworks. Most have a Bergen theme.
reviewed
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Lysøen Estate
This beautiful estate, on the island of the same name, was built in 1873 as the summer residence of renowned Norwegian violinist Ole Bull. After the death of Ole Bull’s French-born wife, Felicité Villeminot, Bull purchased the 70-hectare Lysøen island, about 20km south of Bergen. Between 1872 and 1873, he and architect Conrad Fredrik von der Lippe constructed the fantasy villa ‘Lysøen’. This ‘Little Alhambra’ took much of its extravagant inspiration from the architecture of Moorish Granada and integrated not only intricate frets and trellises, but also onion domes, romantic garden paths, Italian marble columns and a high-ceilinged music hall of Norwegian pine.…
reviewed
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Troldhaugen
Bergen has a busy programme of concerts throughout summer, many of them classical performances focusing on Bergen’s favourite son, composer Edvard Grieg. Most of the concerts take place at evocative open-air venues such as Troldhaugen and Siljustøl, atop Mt Fløyen and in the park adjacent to Håkonshallen. For details and schedules, contact the tourist office. Tickets are sold by the tourist office or at the venue. There are free buses to the concerts from outside the tourist office, leaving one hour before starting time. From mid-June until late August, Grieg concerts also take place in the Grand Hotel Terminus at 9pm.
reviewed
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Siljustøl
A well-known Norwegian composer’s home lies 3km south of Troldhaugen. Harald and Marie Sæverud lived in Siljustøl, a simple timber home. It was constructed in the 1930s of natural stone and untreated wood in an attempt to create unity with the environment. Harald Sæverud’s first symphony was completed in 1920 and he endeared himself to Norwegians everywhere when, during WWII, he wrote protest music against the Nazi occupation. In 1986 he was made official composer of the Bergen International Music Festival. When he died in March 1992, he was given a state funeral and buried at Siljustøl, as requested. To get there, take bus 30 from platform 20.
reviewed
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Hanseatic Museum
This terrific museum provides a window onto the world of Hanseatic traders. Housed in a rough-timber building from 1704, it starkly reveals the contrast between the austere living and working conditions of Hanseatic merchant sailors and apprentices, and the lifestyles of the management. Highlights include the manager’s office, quarters, private liquor cabinet and summer bedroom; the apprentices’ quarters where beds were shared by two men; the fish storage room, which pressed and processed over a million pounds (450,000kg) of fish a month; and the fiskeskrue, or fish press, which pressed the fish into barrels.
reviewed
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Fantoft Stave Church
The Fantoft stave church, in a lovely leafy setting (which goes by the name ‘Paradise’) south of Bergen, was built in Sognefjord around 1150 and moved to the southern outskirts of Bergen in 1883. It was burned down by a Satanist (and soon-to-be-released heavy metal musician) in 1992, but it has since been painstakingly reconstructed. The adjacent cross, originally from Sola in Rogaland, dates from 1050. From Bergen take any bus leaving from platform 20, get off at the Fantoft stop on Birkelundsbakken and walk uphill through the park for about five minutes.
reviewed
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Bryggen Tracteursted
This is one of the great Bryggen eating experiences. Housed in a 1708 building that ranges across the former stables, kitchen (note the stone floor, which meant that it was the only Bryggen building allowed to have a fire) and Bergen’s only extant schøtstuene (dining hall), this fine restaurant does fish soup (Nkr98), steamed mussels (Nkr125) and a selection of Norwegian tapas. The food’s good, but the atmosphere is the major drawcard.
reviewed
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Railway Museum
From early June to early September, another popular excursion is the Sunday tour by veteran steam train between Garnes and Midtun. It begins at 9am on the historic ferry M/S Bruvik from Bryggen to the railway museum at Garnes and from there the teak-panelled train inches 18km to Midtun. The whole trip takes four hours (adult/child Nkr200/100). The train trip alone costs Nkr120/60 return.
reviewed
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Garage
Garage has taken on an almost mythical quality for music lovers across Europe. It does play live jazz and acoustic, but this is a rock venue at heart with well-known Norwegian and international acts drawn to the cavernous basement. If he’s around, ask for Dennis, who’s something of a local legend (he once played in the group Electric Rain) and he’ll set you straight on the local music scene.
reviewed
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Guided Tours of Bryggen
Take one of the excellent Guided Tours of Bryggen, 11am & 1pm (English), noon (Norwegian) Jun-Aug). They last 90 minutes, leave from Bryggens Museum and the commentary includes descriptions of life during Bergen’s trading heyday. The ticket includes admission to Bryggens Museum, Schøtstuene and the Hanseatic Museum (you can revisit these museums later on the same day).
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Altona Vinbar
Possibly our favourite wine bar in town, Altona Vinbar is in an intimate warren of underground rooms that date from the 16th century. With a huge selection of international wines, soft lighting and music that ranges from jazz to rock but never drowns out conversation, it’s hard to find fault with this place. If you’ve had a few glasses, take care with the impossibly low connecting doors!
reviewed
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Fana Folklore
If you’re finding traditional Norwegian culture elusive, this folklore show in the Fana stave church may cut through the obscurity. Yes, it’s tourist-oriented, but it’s well done and a healthy proportion of the spectators is likely to be Norwegian. Fana Folklore buses pick up ticket holders at Festplassen at 7pm, returning at 10.30pm; tickets can be bought at the tourist office.
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Calibar
Funky! Calibar is hip in all the right places with stunning lighting and décor that fuses chic modern style with retro flair (it claims to have the oldest floor in Bergen). Upstairs is café and conversation, but downstairs is a sweaty nightclub for a 30-something crowd drawn by ’80s music it can sing along to. You have to be 24 to get in and ready to pay Nkr96 for a cocktail.
reviewed
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Hulen
Hulen enjoys a legendary status. Going strong since 1968, it’s the oldest rock club in northern Europe and it’s one of the classic stages for indie rock. Hulen means ‘cave’ and the venue is actually a converted bomb shelter. Sadly, it closes during summer when many of Bergen’s students head off on holidays. It also hosts a heavy-metal festival in early November.
reviewed
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Damsgård Manor
The 1770 Damsgård manor, 3km west of town, may well be Norway’s (if not Europe’s) finest example of 18th-century rococo timber architecture. The building’s superb (even over-the-top) highlight is the baroque garden, which includes sculptures, ponds and plant specimens that were common 200 years ago. To get there, take bus 19 from the centre.
reviewed
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Håkonshallen
This large ceremonial hall, adjacent to the Rosenkrantz Tower, was constructed by King Håkon Håkonsson from 1247–61 and completed for his son’s wedding and coronation. The roof was blown off in 1944 thanks to the explosion of a Dutch munitions boat, but extensive restoration has been carried out. There are hourly guided tours in summer.
reviewed
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Pingvinen
Devoted to small-town Norwegian cooking and with a delightfully informal ambience, Pingvinen is terrific. Expect large servings of reindeer, elk, lamb and local fish but without the usual price tag and it’s always obligatory to pay homage to Alma, the ‘goddess chef’. As the night wears on and Alma heads home, the snacks menu comes out.
reviewed
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Veteran Steam Train Tour
From early June to early September, another popular excursion is the Sunday tour by Veteran Steam Train Tour between Garnes and Midtun. It begins at 09:00 on the historic ferry M/S Bruvik from Bryggen to the railway museum (%55 24 91 00) at Garnes and from there the teak-panelled train inches 18km to Midtun. The whole trip takes four hours.
reviewed
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Bryggens Museum
The archaeological museum was built on the site of Bergen’s first settlement, and the 800-year-old foundations unearthed during construction have been incorporated into the exhibits, which include medieval tools, pottery, skulls and runes. The permanent exhibition documenting Bergen in around 1300 is particularly interesting.
reviewed
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Det Lille Kaffe Kompaniet
In the past few years, this place has twice won a nationwide competition for the country’s best coffee and two of its waiters are on Norway’s national coffee team (kind of like a football team but with espresso machines). It’s a lovely little place and it overflows onto the neighbouring stairs when the sun’s out.
reviewed
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Rick’s
There’s something for everyone at Rick’s. At street level, ‘Silver’ is a superstylish wine bar and café with occasionally outrageous décor, while Rick’s, downstairs and open from 10pm, is for live music, with an extra venue that serves as a popular disco. You have to be at least 24 to get in.
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Rosenkrantz Tower
Built in the 1560s by Bergen governor Erik Rosenkrantz, this tower was a residence and defence post. It also incorporates parts of the keep (1273) of King Magnus the Lawmender and the 1520s fortress of Jørgen Hansson. Spiral staircases lead past halls and sentry posts to a reasonable harbour view from the summit.
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