Hawai'i - The Big Island: Getting there & around

If you're coming to Hawai'i, then chances are you'll be coming by plane. All international and most domestic flights arrive at Honolulu International Airport, with connections to Hilo International Airport (tel: 935-5707; www.state.hi.us/dot/airports/hawaii/ito) or Kona International Airport at Keahole (tel: 329 3423; www.hawaii.gov/dot/airports/hawaii/koa). From the mainland, you can catch flights from many airports, including, Las Vegas McCarran International Airport; Los Angeles International Airport; New York JFK International Airport; Washington Dulles International Airport; and Chicago O'Hare International Airport. Four airlines service Kona Airport directly: American Airlines (www.aa.com), United Airlines (www.ual.com), Aloha Airlines (www.alohaairlines.com) and Japan Airlines (www.japanair.com). Many of the big name airlines, including Air Canada, Qantas and China Airlines, fly direct to Honolulu.

If you're island-hopping there are four carriers that service the state: Aloha Airlines (www.alohaairlines.com); go! (www.iflygo.com); Hawaiian Airlines (www.hawaiianair.com) and Island Air (www.islandair.com).

Cruise ships - which are becoming more popular around the islands - include Holland America Cruise Line (www.hollandamerica.com), Princess Cruises (www.princess.com) and Norwegian Cruise Line (www.ncl.com).

In response to the increasing costs of inter-island flights, a new ferry service launched in 2007. Hawaii Superferry (www.hawaiisuperferry.com) sails two state-of-the-art catamarans, each carrying up to 900 passengers and almost 300 cars, between Honolulu and Kaua'i, Maui and the Big Island. Travel time to the Big Island's Kawaihae harbor runs at four hours.

Most visitors to Hawai'i end up hiring a car. The minimum age for driving a car is 18, but most rental agencies only hire out to people aged over 25. However, Thrifty Car Rental will hire out to those over 21. Other car rental agencies include Alamo (www.alamo.com), Avis (www.avis.com) and Budget (www.budget.com). Traffic congestion can be a problem, particularly at peak times. If you're not interested in driving, you can avail of an Island Air round-trip flight between Hilo and Kona. The 21-minute flight departs once daily from Hilo and Kona.

It's possible to cycle around the Big Island without backtracking, but you'll encounter the gamut of terrain and weather, depending on which side you're on. Remember, the 'Big Island' isn't called that for nothing! And the terrain is hellishly hilly. Bicycle-rental shops are mainly in Kailua-Kona and Hilo.

A Big Island bus journey just isn't practical, but with a little planning you can get yourself between major towns and attractions. Hele-On Bus (www.co.hawaii.hi.us/mass_transit/heleonbus.html), the county public bus, offers minimal islandwide service Monday to Friday, with an even more limited service on Saturday. A few caveats: drivers accept only the exact fare. Alternatively, you can buy a sheet of 10 bus tickets. You need permission from the driver to board with a surfboard, boogie board or bicycle and you will be charged a small fee. Luggage and backpacks also attract a small fee. Buses are rarely on time.

Motorcycle rental is not common in Hawaii. The minimum age to rent one at most places is 21 and you'll need to show a valid motorcycle license. The minimum age for renting a scooter or moped (the former can go highway speeds while the latter is only for around town) is 16 years.

Whether in a car or on a motorcycle, proceed with caution: Big Island drivers accounted for 30% of all car fatalities statewide between 1996 and 2003, though less than 13% of state residents live on the island.