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Introducing Big Bend National Park
The Chisos Mountains rise up at the center of Big Bend National Park (432-477-2251; www.nps.gov/bibe; 7-day pass per vehicle $15, per motorcycle $5). To the west, the dramatic mesas and rock formations are the result of ancient volcanic activity. To the east of the mountains stretches desert habitat. The diverse geography in the 800, 000 acres supports mountain lions and black bears, though you’re more likely to see some of the 56 species of reptiles and more than 100 bird types. The park runs along the Rio Grande, but there’s no legal access to Mexico here. River-rafting and other outdoor outfitters are based outside the park. The Panther Junction Visitors Center (915-477-2251; 8am-6pm) is along the main park road, 29 miles from the Persimmon Gap entrance gate south of Marathon, and 26 miles from the Maverick entrance at Study Butte. Gasoline is sold nearby.
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Most of the 150-plus miles of hiking trails are in the Chisos Mountains, where the 14-mile Rim Trail has some challenging ascents, rewarded by mountain panoramas. Down in the desert, the 1.5-mile Santa Elena Canyon Trail, 40 miles southwest of Panther Junction, is one of the most popular treks because of the stunning rock and river views. It’s rated easy, but you have to wade through a stream and climb stairs in the canyon wall. The adventurous (and ecoconscious) might seek out the trail that’s left off maps. Hint: there are falls and lots of vegetation for the desert. Near Rio Grand Village, 20 miles southeast of the main visitor center, you can hike around some old bathhouses to the shallow hot springs.
The stone-and-wooden-beam cottages at Chisos Mountain Lodge (432-477-2291; chisosmountainslodge.com; lodge & motel r $94-99, cottages $115) are the most secluded of several lodging options (No 103 has the best view). Restaurant food here is so-so; better to pack a cooler ahead of time. The complex has a visitor center (8am-5pm) and a camp store (9am-9pm) with basic supplies. Nearby, Chisos Basin Campground (877-444-6777; www.recreation.gov; campsites $14) is the most popular in the park (it’s cooler in summer and winter). No generators are allowed at Cottonwood Campground (877-444-6777; www.recreation.gov; campsites $14), on the desert road to Santa Elena, making it the quietest camping option.
Last updated: Feb 17, 2009
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