A bit more engaging than the Archaeology Museum next door is the İzmir Ethnography Museum. Originally built in 1831 as the St Roche Hospital, this lovely old four-storey stone building houses colourful displays (including dioramas, photos and information panels) demonstrating local arts, crafts and customs. You'll learn about everything from camel wrestling, pottery and the task of tin-plating to felt-making, embroidery and the art of making those curious little blue-and-white 'evil eye' beads. Other displays include weaponry, jewellery and beautiful illustrated manuscripts.