Things to do in Bodrum
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Nazik Ana
Hidden away down a narrow alley but definitely worth hunting out, this simple but atmospheric place is a huge hit locally, particularly with the police officers from next door. With its point-and-pick counter, it's great for sampling different Turkish dishes. Prices are kept so cheap that there's no buyer's remorse – if you don't like something just grab a new plate! It lies off Cevat Şakir Caddesi.
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Castle of St Peter
When Tamerlane invaded Anatolia in 1402, throwing the nascent Ottoman Empire temporarily off balance, the Knights Hospitaller based in Rhodes took the opportunity to capture Bodrum. By 1437 they had erected the Castle of St Peter, which they continued to augment with new defensive features – including moats, walls and water cisterns – over the ensuing decades. However, in 1522, when Süleyman the Magnificent captured the Knights' headquarters in Rhodes, the Bodrum contingent was forced to abandon the castle without having ever truly tested its fearsome defensive capabilities. The castle fell into decline during the succeeding centuries and suffered some shell damage during…
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Mausoleum
Founded some time in the 11th century BC, the ancient kingdom of Caria (which encompassed modern-day Bodrum) became absorbed into the Persian Empire, although it continued to exercise a degree of autonomy until the arrival of Alexander two centuries later. During that time its most famous leader (satrap) was Mausolus (r 376–353 BC), an admirer of Greek culture, who moved the capital from Mylasa to Halicarnassus. After his death, his wife (and sister), Artemisia, undertook the construction of a monumental tomb, as planned by Mausolus himself and designed in a Hellenic-style by Pytheos, the man behind the Temple of Athena at Priene. The Mausoleum – an enormous white-marble …
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Museum of Underwater Archaeology
The space in the Castle of St Peter that was once used to store booty collected during underwater archaeology missions, now houses Bodrum's Museum of Underwater Archaeology. It is arguably the most important museum of its type in the world, a veritable lesson in how to bring ancient exhibits to life. Items are creatively displayed and well lit, and information panels, maps, models, drawings, murals, dioramas and videos all help to animate them.
It's undoubtedly one of the best museums in Turkey, not to mention the Mediterranean (and could teach some of the cupboard-like Victorian museums in the West a thing or two!).
The views from the battalions are spectacular and worth …
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French Tower
Inside the Castle of St Peter is the French Tower where lie the remains of a great and powerful woman. Though popularly said to belong to Queen Ada (a Carian princess who died sometime between 360 BC and 325 BC aged 29, and whose tomb was discovered by Turkish archaeologists in 1989), there is no concrete evidence for this. Buried with a gold crown, necklace, bracelets, rings and an exquisite wreath of gold myrtle leaves, her identity doesn't lessen the incredible value of the find.
Using modern reconstruction techniques, experts at Manchester University have modelled what she might have looked like; a video in Turkish explains their work.
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Shipyard
Just beyond the marina are the recently restored remains of the shipyard. In 1770 the entire Ottoman fleet was destroyed by the Russians at Çeşme and had to be rebuilt from scratch in boatyards like this. The shipyard was fortified as a defence against pirates in the 19th century. Its tower occasionally hosts art exhibitions, while the rest of the site is mainly used as a children's playground and is principally memorable for the views from the top, where there are several old tombstones dating from the period when the Latin alphabet was replacing Arabic.
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Halıkarnas
Since the 1970s, the Halıkarnas has been a clubbers' institution. With top-quality sound and light equipment (including two Class IV lasers you can see in Greece), it's an extraordinary experience, particularly when at capacity (5000 people). Internationally known DJs are billed as well as world-touring shows. On Monday to Wednesday, there's free alcohol from 22:00 to 01:00. Note that it doesn't get going much before 01:00.
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Kocadon Restaurant
Set back from Neyzen Tevfik Caddesi in the cobbled courtyard of a very attractive 200-year-old stone house, is this highly civilised and atmospheric place that specialises in old Ottoman cuisine. The excellent three-course set menu (for lunch or dinner), which includes an open buffet of 12 meze and a fish dish, is fab for a splurge. The à la carte menu is select and enticing. This claims to be Bodrum's best; it may well be.
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Yağhane
Housed in an old olive mill built in 1894, this is an attractive and atmospheric place, with the walls hung with the works of local artists. The menu, which specialises in old Ottoman and Mediterranean dishes, is select and imaginative. Try the delicious regional speciality et çökertme - sliced beef with garlic yogurt, grated potatoes and butter. The wine list is also impressive.
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Snorkel & Dive Center
The Snorkel & Dive Center is an excellent source of current information and also sells good-quality snorkelling and diving equipment, as well as organising dives. The company also runs PADI, NAUI and CMAS courses. A PADI Open Water course costs around €350 per person (including all equipment, tuition and books). It normally takes four days, though three days is possible at a push.
reviewed
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Tranca
Jutting out into the bay, the family-run Tranca probably boasts about the best views of anywhere. Its specialities are tuzda balik (fish baked in salt) and testi kebabı (casserole served in a clay pot that's broken at your table), both cost around €25 to around €30 with a minimum of two people. Reserve a seafront table if you can.
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Marine Club Catamaran
This floating nightclub sets sail at 1.30am for three hours of frenzied fun amid DJed beats and the occasional frolicking drag queen. Its transparent dance floor can pack in 1500 clubbers plus attendant DJs. A free shuttle operates every 15 minutes back to the eastern bay.
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Myndos Gate
The remains of the Myndos Gate (Myndos Kapısı) are newly restored. This is the only surviving gate in what were originally 7km-long walls probably built by King Mausolus in the 4th century BC. In front of the twin-towered gate are the remains of a moat in which many of Alexander the Great's soldiers drowned in 334 BC.
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Kırmızı
Serving Mediterranean food made from the freshest local ingredients, the Kırmızı is a small but characterful place spread over three floors. The walls are used to exhibit the works of local artists, and Duygu, the charming owner, will accord you a warm welcome. The three-course fixed lunch is astonishing value.
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Liman Köftecisi
Famous nationally, the trendy Liman has a lovely position on the seafront, yet serves delicious food at very decent prices. Köfte (grilled meatballs) are the speciality. Of the six types, try the Liman köfte - served with yoghurt, tomato sauce and butter. The service is also exemplary.
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Glass-Shipwreck Exhibit
Inside the Castle of St Peter is the Glass-Shipwreck exhibit. Discovered by a sponge diver in 1973 and excavated by Professor George Bass and a team of marine archaeologists, the 16m-long, 5m-wide ship sank in AD 1025 while carrying three tonnes of mainly broken glass between Fatimid Syria and the Black Sea.
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Kef Bar
A new, multipurpose place with tables right on the beach, you could pass the whole day here if you so fancied. From 09:00 to 20:00, it behaves as both café and beach club (with its own shower and changing rooms); from 20:00 to 23:00, it's a bar (with happy hour); and from 23:00 it's a club-cum-bar.
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Berk Balık Restaurant
Run by a group of friends, this restaurant specialises in fish and seafood, served on a terrific upstairs terrace that buzzes like a village tavern. It's absolutely packed with locals tossing down octopus in garlic and butter, or excellent fresh fish at pleasing prices.
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Marina Yacht Club
Despite the rather grand entrance and chichi yachting surrounds, the food and prices are quite reasonable at this three-restaurant complex, and there's live music every night from 9pm to 1am. You'll have your choice of either Turkish or Italian cuisine.
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Özsüt
Brand-new on the scene, this ever-popular and award-winning İzmiri chain does the usual delicious traditional Turkish puds and cakes and ice cream. Try the delectable Özsüt'un Aynası (mirror of Özsüt).
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Kortan Restaurant
Worth a visit just to see the interior of this lovely, 350-year-old former tavern, it also boasts five tables on a pretty terrace (phone to reserve one). The speciality is grilled fish. Try the delectable barbun (red mullet).
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Ancient Theatre
A restored ancient theatre, which could originally seat 13,000 people, is cut into the rock of the hillside behind the town, on the busy main road to Gümbet. These days, the beautiful theatre is used for frequent concerts.
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Sünger
Named after the owner's grandfather who was a sünger (sponge) diver, this bustling spot is hugely popular with locals. Most diners opt for the pizza (Sünger's known around town for having the best pies), but the fish soup is also very tasty and quite underrated.
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Atmaca Döner Salonu
Very popular locally for its delicious döner kebaps at dirt-cheap prices, this place also has a secret, shaded garden behind the stall front. It's clean and cool and the food's delicious.
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Covered Market
The large covered market is a great place for picnic-hunting, selling very fresh fruit and veg as well as Turkish sweets, dried fruit and nuts at great prices (though you may have to bargain a bit).
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