Prasat Khao Phra Wihan National Park

Introducing Prasat Khao Phra Wihan National Park

Just inside Cambodia, and all but inaccessible from that side of the border, Khao Phra Wihan (Preah Vihear in Khmer) is one of the region’s great Angkor-period monuments. Straddling a 600m-high cliff on the brow of the Dangrek (Dong Rek) escarpment and accessed via a series of steep stepped naga approaches, the large temple complex towers over the plains of Cambodia, offering dreamy views and some beautiful and evocative ruins. Access, however, is a relatively confusing and expensive business.

Claimed by both countries, the temple was finally awarded to Cambodia in a 1962 World Court ruling. But the only access is through Thailand’s Prasat Khao Phra Wihan National Park (0 4581 6000; admission 400B; 8am-5pm, last entry 4pm), where a visitor centre (8am-4pm) marks the path into Cambodia and up to the temple, about 1km away. On the Thai side you have to pay 5B for a border pass (passports are not necessary, but it would be wise to bring it anyway in case things change) and just after the border the Cambodian authorities collect their 200B fee (total cost 605B).

On the Thai side of the border, the 130-sq-km Prasat Khao Phra Wihan National Park contains a number of sights that are worth a peep before tramping over the border to Khao Phra Wihan itself. Near the visitor centre, which includes a model of the temple and some interesting exhibits on its history, the Pha Mo I Daeng cliff face features some fabulous views and the oldest bas-relief in Thailand. The relief depicts three figures, sitting below a roughly carved pig (which might represent Vishnu), whose identities are an enigma to archaeologists and art historians. Although they give the general impression of representing deities, angels or kings, the iconography corresponds to no known figures in Thai, Mon or Khmer mythology. Stylistically the relief appears to date back to the Koh Ker (AD 921–45) period of Khmer art, when King Jayavarman IV ruled from his capital at Koh Ker. The carving is on an overhanging section of the cliff and is accessed via a walkway. Across the parking lot is Nam Tok Khun Si, a waterfall flowing over a cave large enough to hold an orchestra. There is usually only water in the stream from late June through October, and you should visit with a park ranger because it is assumed land mines are still buried in the area.

Khao Phra Wihan itself was constructed over three centuries under a succession of Khmer kings, beginning with Rajendravarman II in the mid-10th century and ending with Suryavarman II in the early 12th century – it was the latter who also commanded the construction of Angkor Wat. The hill itself was sacred to Khmer Hindus for at least 500 years before the completion of the temple complex, however, and there were smaller brick monuments on the site prior to its construction.

The temple complex is only semirestored and the Cambodians appear to have little interest in completing the job any time soon – which makes one wish the World Court had found in favour of the Thais. During Khmer Rouge occupation, which lasted until Pol Pot’s death in 1998, the site suffered from the pilfering of artefacts – lintels and other carvings in particular – although some of this smuggled art has been intercepted and may eventually be returned to the site.

One naga balustrade of around 30m is still intact; the first two gopura have all but fallen down and many of the buildings are roofless, but abundant examples of stone carving are intact and visible. The doorways to the third gopura have been nicely preserved and one (the inner door facing south) is surmounted by a well-executed carved stone lintel depicting Shiva and his consort Uma sitting on Nandi (Shiva’s bull) under the shade of a symmetrised tree. A Vishnu creation lintel is also visible on the second gopura; in contrast to the famous Phanom Rung lintel depicting the same subject, this one shows Vishnu climbing the churning stick rather than reclining on the ocean below.

The main prasat tower in the final court at the summit is in need of major restoration before the viewer can get a true idea of its former magnificence. Many of the stone carvings from the prasat are missing while others lie buried in nearby rubble. The galleries surrounding the prasat have fared better and have even kept their arched roofs.

The area around the temple witnessed heavy fighting between Khmer Rouge guerrillas and the Phnom Penh government, and land mines and artillery pieces still litter the surrounding forest – heed the skull and crossbones signs around the temple and stick to well-trodden paths everywhere else.

Last updated: Mar 2, 2009