This is one of the most wonderful roads in Barcelona. The discord came about because various well-to-do families all wanted their houses done in the latest style and each hired a different architect. Here Gaudí, Enric Sagnier and others battle it out in bricks and mortar. Not to be missed.

On the first corner, at No 35, is Domenech i Montaner's most lavish residence, Casa Lleo Morera. Its ground floor facade was ripped out in the 1940s by philistines who wanted bigger shop windows. But the decorative nymphs and reliefs, depicting the owners work and hobbies, are still intact and the lobby is wonderfully whimsical.

Casa Batlo, at No 43, is a remodelled Gaudífied gem (remodelling took place 1905-1907). The facade is an allegory to St George and the dragon, its rippling skin sprinkled with bits of blue, mauve and green tile. If you stare long enough at the building the dragon seems alive.

At No 41 Casa Amatller Puig i Cadafach, a combination of gothic window frames, ceramic plaques and a steeped gable for the facade, mirrors the owner's life and pastimes. The pillared entrance hall and the staircase lit by stained glass are like the inside of some romantic castle.