Things to do in Ronda
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Restaurante Tragabuches
Sleek, modern Tragabuches is Ronda’s poshest restaurant. Points for creativity are won for the venison and sweet potatoes and the pork trotters with squid and sunflower seeds.
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Lechuguita
A modest nightlife zone centres on Calle Los Remedios with the ever-popular tapas bar Lechuguita .
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Plaza de España
Directly across the Puente Nuevo is the main square, Plaza de España , made famous by Hemingway in his novel For Whom the Bell Tolls. Chapter 10 tells how early in the Civil War the 'fascists' of a small town were rounded up in the ayuntamiento (town hall), clubbed and made to walk the gauntlet between two lines of townspeople before being thrown off the cliff. The episode is based on events that took place here in Plaza de España. What was the ayuntamiento is now Ronda's parador.
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Puerta de Carlos V
The Old Town is surrounded by massive fortress walls pierced by two ancient gates: the Islamic Puerta de Almocábar, which in the 13th century was the main gateway to the castle; and the 16th-century Puerta de Carlos V . Inside, the Islamic layout remains intact, and its maze of narrow streets now takes its character from the Renaissance mansions of powerful families whose predecessors accompanied Fernando el Católico in the taking of the city in 1485.
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Puerta de Almocábar
The Old Town is surrounded by massive fortress walls pierced by two ancient gates: the Islamic Puerta de Almocábar, which in the 13th century was the main gateway to the castle; and the 16th-century Puerta de Carlos V. Inside, the Islamic layout remains intact, and its maze of narrow streets now takes its character from the Renaissance mansions of powerful families whose predecessors accompanied Fernando el Católico in the taking of the city in 1485.
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Plaza de Toros & Around
Ronda’s elegant bullring is one of the oldest in Spain – it opened in 1785 – and has seen some of the most important events in bullfighting history. It was here, in the 18th and 19th centuries, that three generations of the Romero family – Francisco, Juan and Pedro – established the basics of modern bullfighting on foot. The bullring’s museum is crammed with memorabilia, spectacular costumes and photos of famous fans including Hemingway and Orson Welles.
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Bar Restaurant Almocábar
In the Barrio San Francisco a little off the tourist path, tiny Almocábar features inspired and exceptional cooking with a surprising range of vegetarian salads as well as classic fish and meat dishes. The salad with goat’s cheese, walnuts, apples and mango purée is outstanding. Finish your meal with a tangerine sorbet that tastes like all the tangerines in the world concentrated into one shimmering scoop. Booking is advisable.
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Palacio del Marqués de Salvatierra
Just before you reach the Old Bridge you will pass the Palacio del Marqués de Salvatierra, a huge mansion that required the demolition of 42 houses for it to be built. Owned by the descendants of the Marqués de Moctezuma, the Governor of South America, the palace is decorated on its portal with carvings of native American Indians. The palace and all its antiques are sometimes open to the public.
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Tréz
Previously called Relax, this place is now run by a young Dutch couple who are continuing with many of the vegetarian dishes and the general café theme of the place whilst putting their own stamp on it. Whilst there are a couple of meat and fish options, vegetarians will find favourites like spinach and feta pies, mushroom pies, and vegetarian lasagne.
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Museo del Bandolero
Museo del Bandolero is dedicated to the banditry for which central Andalucía was renowned during the 19th century. One dashing mannequin vaguely resembles Bryan Ferry, and there are plenty of striped blankets flung over shoulders, together with the tools of the bandit trade, and some of their spoils. The museum is wheelchair accessible.
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Casa María
Although it doesn't draw the crowds in quite the same way as the nearby Almocábar, Casa María is still worth the trip to the Barrio de San Francisco. The fresh seafood is great value and when things get going there is a wonderfully unpretentious atmosphere. The owner-chef has an impressive wine stash and orders good cuts of meat from around the country.
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Palacio de Mondragón
Palacio de Mondragón, now an engaging museum was built for Abomelic, the ruler of Ronda in 1314. Of its three courtyards, the Patio Mudéjar still preserves an Islamic character. A horseshoe arch leads into a small clifftop garden. Various displays draw you into prehistoric caves, with hilarious wax figures depicting early lifestyles.
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Museo Taurino
The Museo Taurino is crammed with bullfighting memorabilia such as blood-spattered costumes worn by Pedro Romero and 1990's star Jesulín de Ubrique. It also includes photos of famous fans such as Orson Welles and Ernest Hemingway, whose novel Death in the Afternoon provides in-depth insight into the fear and tension of the bullring.
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Casa del Rey Moro
This romantically crumbling 18th-century house, supposedly built over the remains of an Islamic palace, is itself closed, but you can visit its clifftop gardens and descend the 200 dimly lit steps of La Mina, an Islamic-era stairway cut inside the rock right down to the bottom of the gorge (take care!).
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Nonno Peppe
If you’re on a long haul and need a break from tapas, you can’t go wrong with the genuine Italian fare served up in this economical place run by a couple from Salerno near Naples. There’s great spaghetti alla vongole (with clams), pesto and pizzas, along with homey Italian-style service.
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Bodega San Francisco
Taking price, food quality, ambience and local-to-tourist ratio into account, this is the best eating joint in town – hands down. It’s situated in the Barrio San Francisco just outside the old Carlos V gate and gets regular rave reviews from travellers who have sought it out.
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Puente Nuevo
Straddling the dramatic gorge and the Río Guadalevín (Deep River) is Ronda's most recognisable sight, the towering Puente Nuevo, best viewed from the Camino de los Molinos, which runs along the bottom of the gorge. The bridge separates the old and new towns.
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Iglesia de Santa María La Mayor
As grand as a cathedral, stands on the site of Islamic Ronda’s main mosque. The church’s tower and the handsome galleries beside it date from Islamic times, and just inside the entrance is an arch, covered with Arabic inscriptions, which was the mosque’s mihrab.
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Casa Santa Pola
This is an atmospheric restaurant spread over three floors of an old aristocratic house. At night each of the small dining rooms is intimate and candlelit and during the day there are good views over the Tajo. The roast lamb cutlets or the roast pork are a must.
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Pangea Active Nature
Ronda is a hub for outdoor activities, and many villa rentals offer a host of on-site activities. In Ronda itself, the activity company Pangea Active Nature offers a range of activities from one-day caving to longer hiking or biking trips.
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Restaurante Albacara
Situated in the old stables of gorge side Hotel Montelirio, the Albacara serves up creative meals in an elegant environment, with plate-glass windows designed to make the most of the stupendous views.
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El Molino
Popular for its pizzas, good prices, and its position on Plaza del Soccorro, the food here is a little perfunctory but perfectly adequate. A dinner of pizza and salad will keep you happy for hours.
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Alameda del Tajo Park
Behind the Plaza de Toros, spectacular cliff-top views open out from Paseo de Blas Infante and the leafy Alameda del Tajo Park nearby. The park has a good play area for younger children.
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Casa Mateo
Recognise this new, slick place, near Iglesia de Merced, by its Arabic-style brickwork. It has good meat and fish raciones and interesting salads using local products.
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Chocolat
A funky modern cafe where you can choose from a long list of teas, coffees, breakfasts and a boggling array of cakes and pastries. Prices are refreshingly reasonable.
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