Things to do in Solomon Islands
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Raintree Café
This suave number run by a group of ladies boasts one of the most agreeable settings in Honiara. Picture a lovely waterfront location and soul-stirring views of Savo. The tropical décor is easy on the eye, with wooden furnishings, thatched roof and candlelit tables - alfresco dining doesn't come any better than this (it's BYO).
Choose between copious breakfasts, a parade of bountiful pizzas (served from 16:00), omelettes, daily specials chalked up on the blackboard, and melt-in-your-mouth homemade cakes. And don't get us started on the fruit salad with honey and yoghurt. Vegetarians should enjoy the crunchy 'garden salad' served in a traditional wooden bowl. It's such a…
reviewed
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Diving
Oh to have a few more hours in the day to squeeze in more dives! Marovo Lagoon provides superb dives for both experts and novices. Channels, caves, drop-offs, coral gardens, bommies and clouds of technicolour fish (and yes, sharks are part of the package) - what more could a diver hope for?
Marovo Lagoon has two state-of-the-art dive centres. One is based at Uepi Point (North Marovo Lagoon), the other is located in Peava (South Marovo Lagoon). It pays off to dive with each dive shop to maximise your diving experience during your stay in Marovo.
The live-aboard dive vessels MV Bilikiki and the MV Spirit of Solomons usually include the South Marovo Lagoon into their nine-…
reviewed
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snorkelling
There's no shortage of snorkelling spots on the lagoon, including Kennedy island, just off Fatboys. Take the shuttle to Fatboys, hire snorkelling gear at the resort and snorkel to your heart's content.
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Kwaio Village visits
Ready for a culture shock? Consider visiting the traditional 'bush' Kwaio, who live in eastern-central Malaita's mountainous interior. This area is very seldom visited by Westerners and the 1000 Kwaio people who live in the mountains near Atoifi and Sinalanggu have rejected the modern world in favour of the traditional life and religion of their ancestors.
These Kwaio, as opposed to the Christian 'coastal' Kwaio, believe the ancestral spirits are omnipresent, and they practise magic and sorcery. Unmarried girls and women go naked and smoke pipes, while married women wear minute T-pieces. This is not your average 'cultural experience'; you do have to come prepared to avoid…
reviewed
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Langa Langa Lagoon
Scene: Langa Langa Lagoon at dusk. Close up: you're sipping a glass of bush lime on your private terrace at Serah's Lagoon Hideaway, while a small fleet of traditional canoes is gliding past on the calm waters just in front of your bungalow. Soundtrack: hauntingly beautiful chants resonate from nearby villages. Paradise.
This is undisputedly one of Malaita's highlights. Extending from seven to 32km south of Auki, the lagoon is famous for its artificial islands, particularly Laulasi, Alite and Busu. Langa Langa Lagoon is a strong centre for traditional activities, especially shell-money making. It's also renowned for shipbuilding. The only thing that might mar the…
reviewed
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Lake Te'Nggano
At 130 sq km, Lake Te'Nggano, in the southeast of Rennell, is the South Pacific's largest expanse of fresh water. The lake is the old lagoon floor and the tall cliffs that surround it are the old reef. Its western end has 200-odd coral islets and swamps. Four villages lie along the shore, including Te'Nggano, the subprovincial headquarters.
Several bird species are endemic to Rennell, including the Rennell fantail and the rare Rennell white spoonbill. There are at least eight subspecies that have been identified. Dawn and dusk see great flocks of frigate birds, cormorants and boobies circling over Lake Te'Nggano. The unique Rennellese orchid is also beautiful.
Despite the…
reviewed
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Hiking
Growing weary of water activities? Consider climbing up to the crater's rim on Kolombangara. It's an exhilarating two-day/one-night hike. You depart from Iriri village, on the western side of the island, where you arrange guides and porters (avoid Saturdays, as it's an Seventh-Day Adventist village) and pay kastom fees. The first section follows a logging road. You then continue walking up through the thickly wooded forest to a clearing called Professor's Camp, where you sleep overnight.
The next morning, be ready for an early start to reach the top before the clouds set in. The scenery is surreal, trees are covered in moss; as one hiker told us, it feels like you're…
reviewed
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Club Havanah
Expats and the local glitterati saunter here for upper-crust fare with a strong French accent thanks to Georges, the French chef, who can be seen through the glass, working his magic in the kitchen. The pages of its menu are a gateway to wonder.
Whet your palate with cracking petits gris farcis au coeur d'ail (snails with garlic), wolf down a lip-smacking médaillons de boeuf aux trois sauces (beef medallions with three sauces) and finish off your meal with, say, nougat glacé au miel et amandes (frozen dessert with candied fruit, almonds, honey and whipped cream). After having two satisfying dinners here, all we can say is: vraiment très bon (really very good). Just one…
reviewed
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Dive Gizo
At the time of writing, there was only one operational dive centre, Dive Gizo, at the western end of town (there's also a sales office beside the Gizo Hotel). A solid professional outfit, it's been run by Danny and Kerrie Kennedy since 1985. They also operate Dive Munda in Munda. They'll meet you at the airport or wharf and drive you to your digs.
You'll pay A$140 for a two-tank dive, including picnic (add an extra A$20 for gear rental). An open-water certification is A$630. We love their two-tank dive organisation; you spend your surface interval picnicking on a secluded island or having lunch at Fatboys, a winning formula.
Most dives are less than a 20-minute boat ride…
reviewed
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Riba Cave
An hour's walk east of Auki is Riba Cave, but you can make it shorter by taking a taxi then walk the final stretch (about 20 minutes) down to the entrance. It's a haunting cave, with stalagmites, several large subterranean chambers and an underground river. Caveat: it's very slippery. Take a powerful torch (flashlight) and wear sturdy walking shoes.
You'll need a guide to visit Riba Cave, which is on private land and difficult to find. Contact Silas Diutee Malai (tel: 40389), a freelance guide who charges. Make sure that kastom fees are included in the prices he quotes. He can also arrange cross-island treks and 'river drifting' on a tyre down the Fiu River.
reviewed
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Kwaibala Waterfall
If you need to refresh yourself, nothing can beat Kwaibala Waterfall, about 3km from the centre. Take a taxi to the Kwaibala River; from there, a 25 minutes' walk will bring you to the falls. Niagara-like thundering falls they ain't; expect modest cascades with a few pools where you can take a bracing dip.
You'll need a guide to visit Kwaibala Waterfall, which is on private land and difficult to find. Contact Silas Diutee Malai (tel: 40389), a freelance guide. Make sure that kastom fees are included in the prices he quotes. He can also arrange cross-island treks and 'river drifting' on a tyre down the Fiu River.
reviewed
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Bird island
Guesthouses at Lake Te'Nggano can organise excursions on the lake. Regular stops include Octopus Cave, a spooky cave on the north shore, and a visit to Bird island , where hundreds of cormorants, boobies and frigates nest year-round. It's a fascinating sight. Your guide might well climb up a tree to catch a cormorant or two for your dinner (not for the squeamish). Lake Te'Nggano is not really a suitable place to get wet. There's no beach, and only Brits could don their swimming suits and bathe in the milky, pea-green waters. The only place that's suitable for a dip is Octopus Cave, which has limpid waters.
reviewed
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Club 106
There are a few hotspots that deliver earbusting tunes and hot-and-sweaty dancing. They are rather naff by Western standards but after a few weeks spent in other provinces, you'll find them almost happening. Fridays and Saturdays are the liveliest nights but sometimes it can be pretty quiet for no apparent reason. Music-wise, expect an eclectic mix of island and Western hits.
One of the best places to showcase your à la John Travolta (or Olivia Newton-John) dance style is Club 106. It is safe for women travellers - there's security - but steer clear of inebriated patrons.
reviewed
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Artificial Islands
One of Malaita's features is the large number of artificial islands, particularly in Langa Langa and Lau Lagoons. Some of these islands date from the 1550s and new ones are built each year. Stones and dead corals from the lagoons are piled on a sand bar or reef, then sand is spread around, houses are built and coconut palms are planted. The islands serve a dual purpose: protection from head-hunters and freedom from mosquitoes.
The largest islands exceed 1 sq km in size and can be very crowded; some are surrounded by a coral wall. Most, however, are tiny.
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Central Market
While Honiara won't be mistaken for Dakar, the bubbling Central Market assails your senses. The country's principal food market covers a whole block between Mendana Ave and the seafront. It has a huge selection of fresh produce, especially fruits and vegetables, that come from outlying villages along the northern coast and from Savo island. Also on sale are crafts such as Malaitan shell money, souvenir shells and jewellery. The fish market is at the back (follow your nose).
There's no bargaining, and there's no hassling to buy anything. Utter bliss.
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Capitana Restaurant
Oral pleasures (of the Japanese variety) never tasted so good at this wonderful restaurant inside the Mendana Hotel. Ever heard of yakisakana (grilled kingfish in ponzu sauce) or yosenabe (hotpot of seafood, chicken and vegetables)? It's time to get an education. If you're feeling conservative, stick to the to-die-for sashimi or classic Western dishes. Another strong point is the wine list, with a wide selection of Australian tipples.
Two minuses: the faded tablecloth and the elevator soundtrack - nothing's perfect.
reviewed
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Auki
Curled around a wonderfully shaped bay and surrounded by jungle-clad hills, laid-back Auki is a delight to approach by sea. Otherwise Auki is a nondescript little port town, with a few low-slung buildings that aren't going to capture many hearts on their own. Luckily the sea lapping its shores and houses on stilts offer something to please the eyes. Wandering its quiet streets, you wouldn't guess it's the Solomons' third-largest town; everything moves slowly except at the lively market and the bustling wharf, at the town's southern end.
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Walking
If you've got itchy feet, it's easy to indulge in a bushwalking bonanza. There are various half-, one- or two-day walks through gardens, rainforest and friendly villages. Most lodges will be happy to provide a guide and help you organise your walk.
Suggested walks include the two-day trek to Mt Mariu (887m) in Nggatokae, the two-hour walk to the hill that lords over Chea Village on Marovo island and the half-day walk to Mt Reku (520m) on Vangunu. Don't forget your camera - the views over the lagoon are heavenly.
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Flamingo
There are a few hotspots that deliver earbusting tunes and hot-and-sweaty dancing. They are rather naff by Western standards but after a few weeks spent in other provinces, you'll find them almost happening. Fridays and Saturdays are the liveliest nights but sometimes it can be pretty quiet for no apparent reason. Music-wise, expect an eclectic mix of island and Western hits.
One of the best places to showcase your à la John Travolta (or Olivia Newton-John) dance style is Flamingo.
reviewed
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Bula Bar
There are a few hotspots that deliver earbusting tunes and hot-and-sweaty dancing. They are rather naff by Western standards but after a few weeks spent in other provinces, you'll find them almost happening. Fridays and Saturdays are the liveliest nights but sometimes it can be pretty quiet for no apparent reason. Music-wise, expect an eclectic mix of island and Western hits. One of the best places to showcase your à la John Travolta (or Olivia Newton-John) dance style is Bula Bar.
reviewed
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Lime Lounge
This accomplished modern place that seems to have been imported direct from Oz thinks it is the snazziest spot in town. One thing is sure: it's the meeting point for expats who are yearning for a satisfying breakfast (muesli!) or a light meal. There's everything from palate-pleasing salads to well-made sandwiches and devilish banana cakes - and perhaps the illusion of being back home. The walls are adorned with paintings by local artists, which gives the place a splash of style.
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Point Cruz Yacht-Club
Never short of a happy crowd, this Honiara institution is best known for its cold Solbrew than for its affordable fare. It's a shame, because the dishes are simple and full of flavour. Burgers go down well with the brews served on the premises, but you can also treat your tastebuds to kingfish steak, sirloin steak or beef curry. And the seafront lies just beyond the glass. Brilliant value. There are plans to refurbish the place, so keep your ears to the ground.
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Lake Te'Nggano
At 130 sq km, Lake Te'Nggano the southeast, is the South Pacific's largest expanse of fresh water and feels like an untouched paradise. The lake is the old lagoon floor and the tall cliffs that surround it are the old reef. Its western end has 200-odd coral islets and swamps. Four villages lie along the shore, including Te'Nggano, the subprovincial headquarters. It's famous for its abundant bird and marine life, including tilapia, giant eels and sea snakes.
reviewed
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Hong Kong Palace
This unmissable blood-red pagoda on Hibiscus Ave brings an unexpected dash of orientalism in an otherwise dull area. Inside, it's much more sterile, with neons and tiles, but you'll be too busy choosing from the mile-long menu to bother. Seafood is king of the castle here, with a wide choice of crab, shrimp, lobster, fish and squid dishes. The soundtrack is an odd cacophony that fuses the sizzling woks in the kitchen and the blaring TV in the dining room.
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surfing
What's quite new to the Solomons is surfing, and we're not complaining. Here, you can be guaranteed almost virgin waves. There's excellent point surfing off Pailongge, on Ghizo's southern coast. The October-to-April swell rises to 2m or more. There's a great left-hander nearer Titiana village, with a long paddle out to the reef's edge, and a right at Pailongge. Dive Gizo employs a local surfer who's finding new breaks all the time. Bring your own boards.
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