Sogeri Road

Introducing Sogeri Road

There are some interesting areas near Port Moresby along or just off the Sogeri Rd, which veers to the right (east) off the Hubert Murray Hwy a couple of kilometres past the airport. Other than Sunday you’ll likely be the only people around. It’s best to travel with a local out on the Sogeri Rd – there have been occasional incidents – but when we were there the road gangs were upgrading the road that curls up Mt Erima at Varirata National Park and there was certainly no sign of trouble.

It’s only 46km to Sogeri but there is enough to see to make it a full-day trip. The first stop is the large and carefully tended Bomana War Cemetery (328 1536; 8am-4pm), where 4000 PNG and Australian WWII soldiers are buried; American soldiers who died in PNG were generally shipped home for burial. It’s a serene yet sobering place. PMV 16 from Gordons Market runs past the gate.

A few kilometres past the cemetery, the road winds up the impressive Laloki River gorge and you’re soon more than 600m above sea level. There are several viewing points looking into the gorge and up to the Rouna Falls and power station. Just beyond is a small store and a track leading to the rundown Kokoda Trail Motel.

Right after the store is the turn-off to Varirata National Park (325 0195/9340; admission K5 if there’s anyone staffing the gate) which, at 1000 hectares and over 800m high, is the highlight of the Sogeri Rd. It’s 8km from the turn-off and you’ll find six clearly marked walking trails ranging from 45 minutes to three hours long, and some excellent lookouts back to Port Moresby and the coast. The bird-watchinghere can be rewarding, with an array of kingfishers and Raggiana birds of paradise as highlights. It’s possible to camp here, but unless you’re in a large group, it’s potentially unsafe. The best place is on the grass outside the derelict huts. There are pit toilets. Speak to the ranger-in-charge (if you can find him!).

A few kilometres down the dreadful Kokoda Track road (barely navigable in a 2WD in the dry season only) is a turn-off left (west) back towards Port Moresby. This is the Hombrum Bluff road that runs along the top of the Laloki River canyon wall. It leads to Hombrum Bluff Lookout that rises 1300m and was used as a retreat for the military brass during WWII. Below is Seventeen Mile which was an important base camp for more than 400 soldiers.

Back on the Kokoda Track road you can drive past McDonald’s Corner where there’s a small memorial that marks the start of the Kokoda Track. It was here that Australian WWII soldiers disembarked their trucks and began the long muddy march. Later the rough road was pushed further through to Owers’ Corner, and you can drive here too…if your poor car hasn’t suffered enough! Be careful out here. There are no road signs so ask villagers, and if it rains you’ll be stuck good and proper.

There’s nothing worth stopping in Sogeri for, but a couple of kilometres along another diabolical dirt road the Crystal Rapids (admission per vehicle K7) make a pleasant swimming and picnic spot.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009