Other sights in Rabat
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Kasbah des Oudaias
This occupies the oldest part of the city, the site of the original ribat, and commands powerful views over the river and ocean from its cliff-top perch. The kasbah is predominately residential and the narrow streets are lined with whitewashed houses - most of which were built by Muslim refugees from Spain. It's a tranquil and picturesque place to wander and there's no need for a guide. Ignore anyone who advises you that the kasbah is 'forbidden'.
The most dramatic entry to the kasbah is through the enormous Almohad gate of Bab Oudaia, built in 1195. Its location, facing the heart of the city and just outside the original palace, made it more ceremonial than defensive and…
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St Agatha’s Crypt & Catacombs
St Agatha’s Crypt & Catacombs are interesting as they contain a series of remarkable frescoes dating from the 12th to the 15th centuries. According to legend, these catacombs were the hiding place of St Agatha when she fled Sicily. Tours of the catacombs are conducted regularly and explain the history of the site and point out features of the artwork. Back at ground level is a quirky little museum containing everything from fossils and minerals to coins, church vestments and Etruscan, Roman and Egyptian artefacts. Note that from October to June the complex is closed between noon and 1pm.
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Domus Romana
The Domus Romana, also called the Roman House, was built in the 1920s to incorporate the excavated remains of a large Roman townhouse from the 1st century BC. The centrepiece is the original peristyle court (formerly an open courtyard surrounded by columns). The mosaic floor has a geometric border around an image of two birds perched on a water bowl, known as the Drinking Doves of Sosos; a cistern in one corner collected rainwater. There are additional mosaic fragments and artefacts from Malta’s Roman period, including sculptures, amphorae, pottery fragments and oil lamps.
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Archaeology Museum
Dusty and forlorn but interesting (even if the labels are only in French), the Archaeology Museum gives a good account of Morocco’s history. Prehistoric finds include a beautiful neolithic rock carving of a man surrounded by concentric circles. The highlight of the collection is the Salle des Bronzes, which displays ceramics, statuary and artefacts from the Roman settlements at Volubilis, Lixus and Chellah. Look out for the beautiful head of Juba II and the unforgiving realism of the bust of Cato the Younger – both found at Volubilis.
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Grotto of St Paul
Beside St Paul’s Church, stairs lead down into the Grotto of St Paul, a cave where the saint is said to have preached during his stay in Malta. The statue of St Paul was gifted by the Knights in 1748, while the silver ship to its left was added in 1960 to commemorate the 1900th anniversary of the saint’s shipwreck. Come in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the tour groups that congest the narrow space.
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St Paul’s Catacombs
St Paul’s Catacombs, dated from the 3rd century AD, were rediscovered in 1894. There’s not a lot to see in the labyrinth of rock-cut tombs, narrow stairs and passages, but it’s fun to explore (note that there are a number of uneven surfaces, so mind your step). Admission includes a self-guided, 45-minute audio tour available in a handful of languages.
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Wignacourt Museum
Signposted from the main square is the Wignacourt Museum, a real hotchpotch collection that’s worth a browse. It encompasses more Christian catacombs from around the 4th century, a WWII air-raid shelter, a baroque chapel, religious icons and vestments, and changing art exhibitions.
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Casa Bernard
From the Domus Romana, walk south along Triq San Pawl for around 200m to reach Casa Bernard. You’ll be personally guided through this privately owned 16th-century pallazzi by one of the home’s charming owners, who will explain the history of the mansion and the impressive personal collection of art, objets d’art, furniture, silver and china.
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