Sights in Middle East
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Souq Waqif
Currently enjoying the last phase of a major make-over, Souq Waqif is a wonderful place to explore. There has been a souq on this site for centuries, as this was the spot where the Bedouin would bring their sheep, goats and wool to trade for essentials. It grew into a scruffy warren of concrete alleyways in recent years but now its tourist potential has been recognised and it's been cleverly redeveloped to look like a 19th-century souq, with mud-rendered shops and exposed timber beams.
Despite the slight 'Disneyfication' of the area, the chief business of the souq continues unabated and it remains one of the most traditional market places in Doha. This is the place to loo…
reviewed
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Romantheatre
The restored RomanTheatre is the most obvious and impressive remnant of Roman Philadelphia, and is the highlight of Amman for most foreign visitors. The theatre itself is cut into the northern side of a hill that once served as a necropolis and has a seating capacity of 6000. It was built on three tiers: the rulers, of course, sat closest to the action, the military had the middle section and the general public sat perched, squinting, way up the top. The theatre was probably built in the 2nd century AD during the reign of Antoninus Pius (AD 138–61). Theatres often had religious significance, and the small shrine above the top row of seats once housed a statue of the godde…
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Bauhaus Centre
Bauhaus fans will want to stop by the Bauhaus Centre which is loaded with souvenirs and artwork. The centre runs a Bauhaus city tour on Fridays.
Bauhaus style offers simplicity and egalitarianism, designed by architects who carried socialist ideals with them from Europe to Israel. One result of their collective beliefs is the flat roof, intended to be a communal area for all the residents of each building. Of the 4000 Bauhaus-style buildings in the city, just 360 have been renovated, the rest crumbing in the salty, humid sea air, which is not kind to the plaster used for the building façades. Despite its Unesco status, there are no public funds for the restoration of buil…
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Wadi Rum Protected Area
Admission to Wadi Rum Protected Area is strictly controlled and all vehicles, camels and guides must be arranged either through or with the approval of the visitor centre. Essential items to bring along include a hat, preferably with a brim or a flap to keep the sun off your neck, sunscreen, sturdy footwear and plenty of water. If you are camping (including at the rest house), bring along a torch (flashlight), a book to read and a padlock (many tents are lockable).
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Karak Castle
The entrance to the Karak Castle is at the southern end of Al Qala’a St. Throughout the castle, informative display boards give detailed descriptions of the history and function of each structure. Bring a torch (flashlight) to explore the darker regions, and watch your head on low doorways. Reconstruction and excavation work within the castle is ongoing. The main entrance, Ottoman’s Gate, is reached via a bridge over the dry moat. The Crusader’s Gate (old entrance) is not open to the public. From Ottoman’s Gate, pass the ticket office and take the path to the left. Resist the temptation to head into the vaulted corridor straight ahead and instead turn left and en…
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Baha'i Gardens
With every tree trimmed to perfection and every blade of grass seemingly cut to the exact same height, the 18 terraces of the Baha'i Gardens are truly a sight to behold.
The gardens are one of the two great holy places for members of the Baha'i faith, an independent movement that originated in Persia in the middle of the 19th century. The Baha'i are based in the area because the faith's founder, Baha'ullah spent 25 years imprisoned in nearby Akko.
The Baha'i faith is one of the world's youngest religions, established only in the middle of the 19th century. Its central belief is in equality and unity, and it clings to the notion that many prophets have appeared throughout h…
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Citadel (Jebel al-Qala'a)
The area known as the Citadel sits on the highest hill in Amman, Jebel al-Qala’a (about 850m above sea level), and is the site of ancient Rabbath-Ammon. Artefacts dating from the Bronze Age show that the hill was a fortress and/or agora (open space for commerce and politics) for thousands of years. The complex is surrounded by 1700m-long walls, which were rebuilt many times during the Bronze and Iron Ages, as well as the Roman, Byzantine and Umayyad periods. The Citadel ticket office is on the road leading up to the Citadel’s entrance. The Citadel’s most impressive series of historic buildings is the UmayyadPalace, which stretches out behind the National Archaeological…
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Dana Nature Reserve
The Dana Nature Reserve is one of Jordan’s hidden gems. The focal point of the reserve is the charming 15th-century stone village of Dana, which dangles beneath the King’s Highway on a precipice, commanding exceptional views of the valley below. The reserve is the largest in Jordan and includes a variety of terrain, from sandstone cliffs over 1500m high near Dana to a low point of 50m below sea level in Wadi Araba. Sheltered within the red rock escarpments are protected valleys that are home to a surprisingly diverse ecosystem. About 600 species of plants (ranging from citrus trees and juniper, to desert acacias and date palms) thrive in the reserve, together with 180 …
reviewed
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Dome of the Rock
The jewel in the Temple Mount crown is the gold-plated Dome of the Rock, the enduring symbol of the city and undoubtedly one of the most photographed buildings on earth. As its name suggests, the dome covers the slab of stone sacred to both the Muslim and Jewish faiths. It was here that Abraham prepared to sacrifice his son and from which, according to Islamic tradition, the Prophet Mohammed launched himself heavenward to take his place alongside Allah.
The building was constructed between AD 688 and 691 under the patronage of the Umayyad caliph Abd al-Malik. His motives were shrewd as well as pious - the caliph was concerned that the imposing Christian Church of the Holy…
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Khan As'ad Pasha
Just beyond the hammam is the grand entrance to Khan As'ad Pasha, arguably the finest and most ambitious piece of architecture in the Old City - a cathedral among khans. Built in 1752 under the patronage of As'ad Pasha al-Azem, it encompasses a vast space achieved through a beautiful arrangement of eight small domes around a larger circular aperture, allowing light to stream in above a circular pool. The domes are supported on four colossal grey-and-white piers that splay into elegant arches.
Beyond the khan, the souq intersects with Straight St.
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Bat Galim Beach
Ports tend to make a mess of the coast so it's not too surprising that Haifa's beaches are infamously toxic and strewn with garbage. Case in point is Bat Galim Beach , considered one of the best surf breaks in the country and host to international competitions - surfers constantly lament its piles of rusting metal, bricks, concrete, disused furniture and other refuse.
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Baalbek Ruins
The site houses the hexagonal court, a monumental propylaea, the hexagonal court, the Great Court (Sacrificial Courtyard, the Temple of Jupiter, the Temple of Bacchus and a free museum. A good free map of the site, entitled Heliopolis Baalbek 1898-1998: Rediscovering the Ruins is produced by the German Archaeological Institute and is available all over town.
ATerrific multilingual guides can be found (or will find you) around the ticket office. The entrance to the main site is currently at the southeastern end of the temple complex. Note that at the time of writing, a new entrance to the museum complex was planned and under execution: the new entrance, when finally comple…
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German Colony
At least once during your stay in Haifa, walk up Ben-Gurion Ave from Jaffa Rd and enjoy the splendour that is the German Colony backed by the cascading lights of the Baha'i Gardens. The colony (really just this street), was renovated in the 1990s into the city's premier address for shopping and dining, with many of its buildings restored and given plaques that describe the history of the area. Haifa's tourist information centre is also located here.
Part of the renovation required that the entire street be moved 168cm, so that its centre divide would line up with the staircase of Baha'i Gardens.
The colony was established in 1869 by the Templers (not to be confused with th…
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Al-Bass site
Al-Bass site On the landward side of Tyre, about 20 minutes on foot from the other sites, is the enormous Al-Bass Archaeological site. A colonnaded east-west road, possibly a continuation of the road at Al-Mina site, takes you through a vast funerary complex containing dozens of highly decorated marble and stone sarcophagi.
The more elaborate have reliefs depicting scenes from Greek mythology and Homeric epics. Most are from the 2nd and 3rd century AD, but some date back as far as the 2nd century BC, and there are Byzantine coffins from as late as the 6th century.A huge, triple-bay monumental archway stands further along the colonnaded street. Originally the gateway to th…
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The Peacock Throne
There has long been confusion about the origins of the Peacock (or Naderi) Throne that now sits in the National Jewels Museum. The real story is this: In 1798 Fath Ali Shah ordered a new throne to be built. His artists made quite a job of it, encrusting the vast throne that looks more like a bed with 26,733 gems.
Set into its top was a carved sun, studded with precious stones, so the throne became known as the Sun Throne. Later Fath Ali married Tavous Tajodoleh, nicknamed Tavous Khanoum or Lady Peacock, and the throne became known as the Peacock Throne in her honour.
Fath Ali certainly had a taste for gems, but one of his predecessors, Nader Shah, liked the finer things to…
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Burj Khalifa
Call it impressive or preposterous, there’s no denying that Burj Khalifa is a ground-breaking feat of architecture and engineering. The world’s tallest building pierces the sky at 828m (seven times the height of Big Ben) and opened on 4 January 2010, only six years after excavations began. Up to 13,000 workers toiled day and night, at times putting up a new floor in as little as three days. Inside Dubai’s own ‘Tower of Babel’ is a mix of offices and apartments; at the time of writing, the sleek Armani Hotel was scheduled to open late in 2010. For visitors, the main attraction is the Observation Deck ‘At the Top’ on the 124th floor. From such lofty heights yo…
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National Archaeological Museum
The National Archaeological Museum is just northwest of the Temple of Hercules. It has a good collection of items spanning all eras of Jordanian and regional history, ranging from 6000-year-old skulls from Jericho to Umayyad period artwork. It also boasts some examples of the Dead Sea Scrolls found at Qumran in 1952, a copy of the Mesha Stele and assorted artefacts from Petra and Jerash. Most exhibits are well labelled in English.
Pride of place are three of the Ain Ghazal statues, which date back to 6500 BC as some of the world's earliest sculpture. Finds from the Citadel itself include the head from a statue of the Greek goddess Tyche and some Egyptian-style carvings.
Al…
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Damascus Gate
The scene in front of the Damascus Gate is a microcosm of the Palestinian world - vendors heave goods in and out of the Old City, families picnic on the steps and Israeli soldiers tap their truncheons. You'll also spot elderly women from the villages trying to sell herbs and produce; most of them wear intricately embroidered dresses that are a part of their dowry and identity.
The gate itself dates in its present form from the time of Süleyman the Magnificent (who oversaw the gate's construction between 1537 and 1542), although there had been a gate here long before the arrival of the Turks. This was the main entrance to the city as early as the time of Agrippas, who rule…
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Arab Fund Building
Although not strictly open to the casual caller, the impressive Arab Fund Building, with a host of exceptionally beautiful rooms, is worth the trouble of gaining access. Call first to request an appointment and explain that you wish to see the building's interior and you'll be given a guided tour by one of the employees.
The gravity of the exterior belies the light and airy interior, designed upon Arabic architectural principles of integrity of space, decoration and function. The magnificent eight-storey atrium with wooden lattices, opening onto a transparent corridor or an exquisite hidden majlis (meeting room), is an exciting reinterpretation of a familiar theme. Tradit…
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Liwa Oasis
Few places in the UAE are as romantic as Liwa Oasis. With its magnificent apricot-coloured sand dunes, its sprinkling of verdant oases and its star-studded night skies, there's no wonder that it is a popular weekend getaway for locals. Positioned on the edge of Saudi Arabia's Rub'al-Khali (Empty Quarter), it lives up to its name, with the only things disturbing the magnificent horizon of dunes an occasional wandering camel.
Liwa Oasis itself is actually a belt of villages and farms spread out over a 150km (93mi) arc of land. Locals in 4WDs often camp in the area on weekends, and tour companies offer 4WD dune rides from Abu Dhabi. The most spectacular scenery can be seen o…
reviewed
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Khaled ibn al-Walid Mosque
Built as recently as the first decade of the 20th century, Homs' best-known monument, Khaled ibn al-Walid Mosque , is an attractive example of a Turkish-style mosque. The black-and-white Mamluk-style stone banding in the courtyard is particularly striking. Inside the prayer hall, over in one corner, is the domed mausoleum of Khaled ibn al-Walid, the military strategist and hero who conquered Syria for Islam in AD 636.
You can enter the mosque if dressed modestly. Women have to borrow a 'yishmak' (as they call the abeyya, or woman's cloak, here), cover their hair and also must enter through the small side door on the right to see the marble tomb. Do not enter during prayer…
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Aquarium
Housed in a fine, sail-shaped building on the corniche, the mesmerising aquarium is the largest in the Middle East. A sign of contentment, perhaps, turtles perch on the back of lazy crocodiles, hedgehogs mate, prickles notwithstanding, in the adjacent eco-display, and even the aquarium's guards have taken to humming Arabic love songs. The unique intertidal display, with waves washing in at eye level, is home to shoals of black-spotted sweetlips and the ingenious mudskipper.
But the most spectacular part of the display (with giant spider crabs at 3.8m leg to leg, a living reef and fluorescent jellyfish coming in at a close second) is undoubtedly the wraparound, floor-to-ce…
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Church of the Girdle of Our Lady
From the Christian Quarter along Sharia Abi al-Hawl, continue due east, straight over the crossroad, until you see a small gateway topped by a cross - this leads through a grey stone wall to the Church of the Girdle of Our Lady . In 1953 the patriarch of Antioch, Ignatius Aphraim, declared a delicate strip of woven wool and silk, found in the church six months earlier, to be a girdle worn by the Virgin Mary.
The story is that it had survived intact since the ascension of Mary into heaven, preserved in one container or another in a church on this spot. The church is an attractive little grey-stone building with a red pantile roof, and is still an active centre for Syrian O…
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Al-Pasha Turkish Bath
Al-Pasha Turkish Bath is the perfect pampering antidote to the hills and bustle of Amman. The full service includes steam bath, sauna, Jacuzzi, scrubbing, 40-minute massage and two soft drinks, all done in a superb building architecturally faithful to the tradition of a Turkish hammam. There are male and female attendants. Couples are welcome during the day; evenings are generally for men only. It's a good idea to book ahead and bring a pair of swimming trunks.
It's easiest to find if you're coming along Abu Bakr as-Siddiq St (Rainbow St) from the 1st Circle; it's the fifth street on the right. Taxis know it as near Ahliya School for Girls.
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Kuh-e Sangi
This small but abrupt rocky hill rises near Mashhad’s southern ring road (the ‘Kabul to Paris highway’). Sweeping views show just how huge Mashhad has become. Tastefully set rock steps lead up from a large ‘recreation complex’ featuring ponds, over-priced ice creams and lots of souvenir shops selling soapstone dizi pots and awful porcelain figurines. Horsecart rides do NOT take you up the mountain as they might imply but on a pointless eight-minute trot down some side streets. Within the park there’s a sweetly naive loop of pedal-car monorail for kids.
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