Things to do in Nouakchott
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Port de Pêche
The Port de Pêche is an absolute must-see, and is by far Nouakchott's star attraction. It's incredibly lively and extremely colourful. You'll see hundreds of teams of men, mostly Wolof and Fula, dragging in heavy hand-knotted fishing nets. Small boys hurry back and forth with trays of fish, which they sort, gut, fillet and lay out on large trestles to dry. The best time is in the late afternoon, when the fishing boats return. It's a fantastic experience and not to be missed.
It's pretty safe as long as you're vigilant and sensible (wear a money belt). Take a taxi to get there from the centre.
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Café-Restau Bruxelles
A laid-back little restaurant with outdoor seating and a neat interior, this is a lovely place to eat. It's run by amiable Alex, a Belgian citizen, and his Mauritanian wife. Expect savoury dishes that are well presented, including brochettes de poisson (fish kebabs), rump steak, a good range of crunchy salads and hearty omelettes. Make sure to leave room for the tasty pancakes. It's a bit far from the centre, on the road to Nouâdhibou, but it's well worth the taxi ride.
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Marché Capitale
Marché Capitale offers a bit of everything. Potential souvenirs include brass teapots, silver jewellery, traditional wooden boxes with silver inlay, pipes, leather bags, sandals, cushions, beads and grigri. You'll find dress material, colourful Soninké tie-dyed material, Senegalese batiks and the inexpensive, crinkly malafa (fabric) that Moor women use as veils.
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La Salamandre
Just off Route des Ambassades, La Salamandre enjoys a deserved reputation for lip-smacking French cooking. Here you can warm yourself with salade périgourdine (salad), shrimps, beef dishes and côte d'agneau grillée (grilled lamb). The sleek setting, with lashings of bright colours splashed all over the walls, is another draw.
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La Palmeraie Pâtisserie Restaurant
This snazzy-but-not-sooty venue is a contender for the title of best restaurant in Nouakchott. Whatever your own verdict, you'll eat in genteel surroundings. The outdoor seating is particularly inviting. Signature dishes include filet de dorade (sea bream fillet) or lotte grillée (grilled monkfish). It's also recommended for breakfast.
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Restaurant El-Bahdja
One of Nouakchott's best choices, this cosy eatery continues to win plaudits for its excellent Moroccan-inspired menu at very reasonable prices. You can't really go wrong - everything's pretty good - but if you want a recommendation, go for a tajine (Moroccan stew featuring meat or poultry simmered with vegetables and olives).
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Le Jardin
It's the setting that's the pull here, with a mellow open-air terrace and a couple of elegant dining rooms. This upscale outlet is patronised by expats and the local glitterati who want to dine in style. The menu features meat and fish dishes, including beef Orloff, lamb skewers and African threadfin with coconut sauce.
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Musée National
Anyone with an interest in Moorish culture shouldn't leave Nouakchott without a visit here. On the first level is a prehistoric gallery with archaeological exhibits while the second level is taken up with more recent ethnographic displays from Moorish society. The building is labelled as the Ministry of Culture.
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Rimal
It's not expensive, it's utterly without frills and the food is never going to win any Michelin awards, but we found the rustic look - bare tables, plastic tablecloths, peeling walls - suggestive and the time-warped ambience strangely seductive. Stick to the classics such as omelettes or fried fish.
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Pizza Lina
Pizza Lina has been flying the flag for tasty pizzas served bubbling hot from the oven for some years. The meat and fish dishes are also excellent, or you could order a scrummy plate of pasta. There's a pleasant modern dining room but the terrace is also agreeable. Not far from the stadium.
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Le Bambou
If you fancy a change from European or African food, head to this humble Asian restaurant. The setting is positively old-fashioned and the dining quarters couldn't be more cramped, but there's a pleasant garden. Dig into staples such as Chinese soups, meat or fish dishes at puny prices.
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Grande Mosquée
Dominating the city's skyline, the Grande Mosquée, better known as the Mosquée Saudique, is right in the centre. It's not exactly a model of architectural magnificence but it's worth a couple of pictures for its slender minarets.
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Le Prince
Le Prince is one of the many fast-food establishments on Rue Alioune between Ave Kennedy and Ave du Général de Gaulle. Plonk yourself on a wobbly chair in the room at the back and tuck into a plate of well-prepared shwarma.
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Phenicia
You'll find no cheaper place for a sit-down meal in the centre. The setting is wonderfully modest with old paintings hanging on peeling walls. It's certainly not gourmet food but it's filling, with omelettes, steaks and sandwiches.
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Nouakchott's beach
Fancy a dip? The nearest beach to Nouakchott is 5km west of the centre. OK, it ain't the Bahamas, but it can be fun for a couple of hours. There's no shade, so bring sunscreen. Beware of undertows.
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Club B
A place well worth bookmarking if you want to dine in style. It's housed in a posh building off the main drag, a stone's throw from the Senegalese embassy - you can't miss the orange façade.
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Centre Artisanal
Check this place out for silver trinkets and jewellery. Located on the highway to Rosso - it's beyond the roundabout intersection for Boutilimit and on your right.
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Friday Mosque
The Friday Mosque is notable for its blindingly white façade. Visitors aren't allowed inside during prayer times. Located on the road to the airport.
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Mosquée Marocaine
The large Mosquée Marocaine is a precious landmark in this bustling area. Located south of Ave Abdel Nasser, towards the Cinquième Quartier.
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Le Méditerranéen
A reputable French (Corsican, to be accurate) restaurant, housed in a stylish villa. The camel kebab was average - fish dishes are reportedly better.
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Le Petit Café
Le Petit Café is a smart fast-food joint with good snacks at moderate prices. Located near the French embassy.
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Modern KTV
Modern KTV has regular live musicians and Senegalese DJs. Thursday, Friday and Saturday are the liveliest nights.
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Pâtisserie Les Princes
One of the capital's most sweet-smelling bakeries. Stock up on baguettes and cakes of all shapes and sizes.
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VIP Club
VIP Club has regular live musicians and DJs. Thursday through Saturdays are the liveliest nights.
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Snack Irak
Snack Irak is a long-running favourite. One of the many fast-food establishments on Rue Alioune.
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