With its chilly elevation, decrepit red-brick church, faded cricket club and old colonial buildings nestled in the wooded foothills, Zomba is hauntingly special; like a chapter of the British Empire hanging by a tenuous thread. Yes it has the typical chaos of a dusty market, but the higher you head up the ghostly Zomba Plateau, the more stunning and pristine the scenery becomes. The capital of Malawi from 1891 until the mid-1970s, it's home to wide, tree-lined streets, and an easy charm. East of the main road is the town’s friendly commercial centre. There’s a lively market, banks, bureaux de change, internet cafes and a couple of decent eateries.