Tsiribihina River

Introducing Tsiribihina River

Even though it’s become Madagascar’s favourite organised tour, drifting leisurely down the Tsiribihina (Tsi-ree-been) River in a traditional wooden pirogue remains a Zen experience. The air is silent except for the plunk of the local piroguier’s paddle splashing against the dark curtain of water. Lemurs hop from treetop to treetop and fish swim alongside your boat. Floating down the 146km stretch of river allows you to experience Madagascar from a new perspective; you have access to areas so remote they can only be reached by boat. The scenery is beautiful and varied, and the route takes you through the striking Tsiribihina Gorge and past stretches of deciduous forest. Lunch is taken in the shade of giant trees on the river banks or next to cascading waterfalls, and camp is made each night on the flat white sandbanks in the shallows.

Bring along a hat and/or umbrella, sun cream, mosquito repellent, rain protection, plenty of drinking water, and a bird book if you’re at all interested – the bird-watching along the river is fantastic and not many guides know all the species.

The trip begins in Miandrivazo and ends in the village of Belo-sur-Tsiribihina. The main time for river descents is from April to November. During the rainy season, nights are spent in villages rather than on the sandbanks.

Unfortunately the huge influx of tourists now making this tour means the river is no longer as pristine as it once was. Travellers have noted piles of only half-buried human faeces and trash at campgrounds, and the sheer number of boats running this stretch of river means you’ll likely hit a pirogue traffic jam at some point. During peak tourist season (June to August) the whole three-day trip can feel a bit more like a water-park ride than a wilderness adventure. To avoid the bulk of crowds, visit during the shoulder season between wet and dry.

The trash and improper burial of human waste are real issues in this fragile ecosystem. The natural balance is being damaged by too much traffic already, and if travellers and guides don’t do more to clean up their waste, the problem will only be exacerbated in the future. Take responsibility for yourself, don’t litter and make sure to bury any waste in a hole at least 15cm deep and 30m from the river.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009