As visitors to Tokyo quickly discover, the people here are absolutely obsessed with food. There are more restaurants in this pulsing megalopolis than in any other city in the world. And the quality is unparalleled, too: you’re rarely more than 500m from a good, if not great, restaurant. At the top of the dining hierarchy is sushi – best eaten from a tiny counter restaurant in Tokyo’s posh Ginza neighbourhood, or fresh from the source at Tsukiji Central Fish Market – and kaiseki, Japan’s traditional haute cuisine. Casual dinners among friends are convened at an izakaya (literally ‘drinking house’), the Japanese equivalent of a pub. Here food is ordered for the table a few dishes at a time and washed down with plenty of beer or sake. Tokyo also has some wonderful traditional restaurants that have been turning out excellent renditions of classic dishes for decades.