Things to do in Matsuyama
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Dōgo Onsen Honkan
The main building at Dōgo Onsen, Dōgo Onsen Honkan, was constructed in 1894, and designated as an important cultural site in 1994. The three-storey, castle-style building incorporates traditional design elements, and is crowned with a statue of a white heron in commemoration of its legendary origins.
Although countless famous people have passed through its doors, Dōgo Onsen Honkan rose to popularity following its inclusion in the famous 1906 novel Botchan, which was authored by Sōseki Natsume, the greatest literary figure in Japan's modern age. Even if you're well-versed in the ins and outs of onsen culture, Dōgo can be a bit confusing as there are two separate baths…
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Matsuyama-jō
Perched on top of Mt Katsuyama in the centre of town, the castle dominates the city, as it has for centuries. Matsuyama-jō is one of Japan's finest surviving castles, and one of the very few with anything interesting to look at inside: there are excellent English-language displays.
A ropeway (one way/return ¥260/500) is on hand to whisk you up the hill, though there is a pleasant pathway if you prefer to walk. It's worth walking down via the back slopes of the castle and stopping off at Ninomaru Shiseki Tei-enin the outer citadel of the fort, consisting of old gardens and modern water features.
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Ishite-ji
East of Dōgo Onsen is Ishite-ji , 51st of the 88 Temples, and one of the largest and most impressive in the circuit. Ishite means 'stone hand' and comes from a legend associated with Kōbō Daishi. A statue of Kōbō Daishi overlooks the temple from the hillside.
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Dōgo Bakushukan
The Japanese love their mass produced lagers, though beer drinkers with a more discerning palette know that you can't beat Dōgo Bakushukan's award-winning korushu (kolsch; around ¥450). Alternate sips of sweet nectar with slivers of raw fish from the house sashimi setto (sashimi set) and you've got yourself a meal. Directly across from Dōgo Onsen, this spot is easily recognisable by the huge plastic beer mug outside.
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Dōgo Onsen
According to legend, Dōgo Onsen was discovered during the ancient age of gods when a white heron was found healing itself in the spring. Since then, Dōgo has featured prominently in a number of literary classics, and garnered a reputation for the curative properties of its waters. The mono-alkaline spring contains sulphur, and is believed to be particularly effective at treating rheumatism, neuralgia and hysteria.
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Kushihide Tori-ryōri-honten
Located down a side street adjacent to the Ōkaidō Arcade (look for the chicken on the sign) is this speciality restaurant where you can feast on fresh and tasty free-range Ehime chicken dishes. Although there aren't any plastic models, the speciality of the house is the tori sashimi (raw chicken). Check your hesitations at the door and dig in - it's delicious!
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Goshiki Sōmen Morikawa
Next to the central post office is this elegant Matsuyama institution, which specialises in goshiki sōmen (thin noodles in five different colours). You'll recognise it by the piles of colourful noodles in the window waiting to be snapped up and taken home as souvenirs. Set meals are around ¥1500; there is a picture menu.
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Dōgo-kōen
A small park containing the site of Yuzuki-jō, the former residence of the Kōno clan that ruled Iyo province in feudal times. Articles unearthed during recent excavations are on display in Yuzuki-jō Museum, near the west entrance of the park.
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Dish & Bar After Glow
A few blocks east of the Ōkaidō tram stop (look for the English sign) is this excellent bistro, which boasts more than 200 varieties of wine from all over the world. Although it's tempting to choose some of the more familiar names, you can't go wrong with a chilled white from Yamanashi-ken.
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Jett Rockbar
Needless to say, this basement bar specialises in rock 'n' roll, and there's a good chance that you can catch live music here on the weekends. Located next to the Washington Hotel, this place is easy to spot - just look for the English sign.
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Ninomaru Shiseki Tei-en
Walk down the back slopes of the castle hill (Katsuyama) to stroll around the Ninomaru Shiseki Tei-en gardens, which were built in the outer citadel of the castle, and consist of various pools, gardens, rockeries and waterfalls.
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Isaniwa-jinja
Designated a National Treasure, this shrine was modelled on Kyoto's Iwashimizu-Hachimangū and was built in 1667. It's located a short walk east of Dōgo Onsen.
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Yuzuki-jō Museum
Excavations have revealed various relics that are on display of the Yuzuki-jō castle, the former residence of the Kōno clan that oversaw Iyo province in feudal times.
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Shiki Memorial Museum
Just south of Matsuyama-shi Station, in the temple grounds of Shōjūzen-ji. Part of the house where famous haiku poet Shiki Masaoka (1867–1902) spent the first 17 years of his life.
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Shiki-dō
Just south of Matsuyama City station in the temple grounds of Shoshu-ji is Shiki-dō, a replica of the humble house of the legendary haiku poet Shiki Masaoka (1867-1902).
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Kinokuniya Bookshop
English-language books can be found on the 4th floor of the Kinokuniya Bookshop, near Matsuyama City station.
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Ehime Museum of Art
The Ehime Museum of Art features rotating exhibitions of 20th-century Japanese art.
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Underground Cafe
A local and expat secret bar hang-out that feels more Honshu than Shikoku and serves Mexican food on the side. It's off the street leading to the ropeway; look for the Union Jack flag, so coolly out of context.
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Sala Sol
The town's most popular foreigner bar is surprisingly cool, with excellent music and generous drink specials. It's also one for the few places in town where people dance…all night long.
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Peggy Sue Saloon
Run by a music nut with a fondness for country music, this friendly bar is a treasure trove of cowboy-themed Americana. There's a Wurlitzer jukebox, and several guitars and mandolins on the walls that are just waiting for someone to take them down and start picking. The 2nd-floor sign is visible from street level. It's in a cluster of bars just east of Okaido Arcade.
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Ohana Cafe
This Hawaiian burger joint in the heart of Matsuyama is a happening little business. The four-seater lunch counter and one comfy booth are permanently packed during happy lunch hours, and the tiny, many varied burgers are sweet and delicious. The fruity enchiladas are pretty good too. It's off Okaido Arcade, past Café Bleu and on the right.
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Futaba
Excellent noodles and nabe (Japanese hotpot) for your post-onsen replenishment.
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Dōgo Biiru-kan
Right by Dōgo Onsen Honkan, this place brews its own beer, and is a good spot for a drink and a bite to eat after a relaxing soak. The names of the beers (¥840) are allusions to novelist Natsume Sōseki and his famous novel, Botchan. There's also a decent range of food available from a picture menu (such as iwashi no karaage – fried sardines – for ¥550).
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Chocobar
This tiny shot bar located on a busy road has a regular hip-hop soundtrack and colourful decor. It's one of the few places in Matsuyama where passers-by can watch you get drunk.
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Café Jumelle
Matsuyama has a revelatory organic food store and cafe that serves up heartening soy-based meals with clean flavours and crisp presentation. It's a godsend for vegans and for anyone who loves a lightly sugared dessert.
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