Things to do in Sendai
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Sendai-jō Ato
Sendai-jō Ato is the second of Sendai's star attractions. Though destroyed during Allied bombing in WWII, the giant, moss-covered walls are as imposing as they are impressive - and the spot makes a great meander. Built on Aoba-yama in 1602 by Date Masamune, it was commonly known as Aoba-jō (Green Leaves Castle), after a nearby spring that flowed even during times of drought.
It affords sweeping views over the city, but keep in mind that there's not a lot here other than a stirring statue of Masamune on horseback, views, and little shops and restaurants. For the Japanese it's the spirit that counts, and armed with a little knowledge of the Masamune legend, it's rather ea…
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Aoba Castle Exhibition Hall
If you don't have an intimate knowledge of the Masamune legend when you climb the Sendai-jō Ato hill, you can get it at the Aoba Castle Exhibition Hall. A computer-generated film depicts the castle's former glory; its graphics are so similar to modern video games that Sony PS3 or XBox aficionados will start expecting samurai warriors to jump out from behind the castle if they don't toss a grenade. You can get English-language headsets.
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Zuihō-den
Masamune Date's mausoleum, Zuihō-den, is at the summit of a tree-covered hill by the Hirose-gawa. It was originally built in 1637, destroyed by Allied bombing during WWII and reconstructed in 1979. The present building is an exact replica of the original, faithful to the ornate and sumptuous Momoyama style: a complex, interlocking architecture, characterised by multicoloured woodcarvings.
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Trad Bar Esprit
A popular trend in Japan is the 'olde tyme bar', with loads of wood panelling, photos of leathery jazz men on the walls, and bar staff done up like characters from The Sting. Esprit is one such place, and its faux nostalgia is an easy respite from Kokubunchō madness.
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Namaskar
The menu, with its spice-level warnings, has the usual suspects: tandoori chicken, chicken tikka, tandoori king prawns, prawn masala. It's all good stuff, though, and the portions are generous. Beware: the large video screen showing continuous, loud music videos is highly distracting.
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Simon's Bar
This cosy little stand-up bar, with its talismanic name, glass bar, and memorabilia, has a lively crowd of Japanese, the occasional foreigner, and a good selection of beers and cocktails. Take the first left after Club Shaft, heading towards Jōzenji-dōri.
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Club Shaft
This one's a sports bar during the week, with a high-fibre diet of European soccer and American baseball. On the weekends it's a dance club with house, breaks and hip-hop, as well as 'waving-your-arms-in-the-air-like-you-just-don't-care' retro Manchester nights.
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Vilevan
A mellow jazz bar, well versed in the history of the genre: it was originally called the Village Vanguard, until the famous New York bar of that name 'suggested' they reconsider. There's live music on Saturday nights and decent vegetarian food.
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Yabuya Honten
A much-loved soba (buckwheat noodles) specialist, Yabuya Honten has been around since 1847 - more than enough time to perfect its craft. The kamo-zaru soba variation, served with duck, is terrific.
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Aji Tasuke
Try gyūtan cooked over charcoal, or the set menu (teishoku) featuring the famous dish accompanied by oxtail soup and rice with boiled barley. It's right next to the small torii shrine gate.
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Sendai City Museum
At Sendai City Museum there's a scale model of Sendai castle, along with an exhaustive account of the Masamune era. Among some 13,000 artefacts loaned from the Date family is his distinctive armour.
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Umai Sushikan
This popular restaurant, spotlessly clean and featuring lots of natural wood and friendly smiles, is known for the freshness of its dishes.
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Maruzen
English-language magazines and books on the AER building's 1st floor, steps away from the station.
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Umami Tasuke
Serves excellent gyūtan in salted (shioyaki) and fatty variants.
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