Introducing Yamaga & Kikuchi Onsen
These popular hot-springs towns northeast of Kumamoto spring to life during the spectacular Yamaga Chōchin Matsuri held on 15 and 16 August. Taiko drums signal the beginning of this famous lantern festival in rustic Yamaga Onsen. For two nights the women of the town, clad in summer kimonos, dance through the streets to the sound of shamisen (a three-stringed traditional Japanese instrument that resembles a banjo), wearing washi paper lanterns on their heads. Yamaga Tourism Office (43-2952), opposite the Plaza shops, can help with accommodation.
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Yamaga Cycling Terminal (43-1136; r per person incl 2 meals ¥5200), on a traffic-shielded 34km cycling route from Kumamoto via Ueki, has large communal tatami rooms and a huge bath. Without a bike, it’s a 10-minute taxi ride (¥1500) from the centre of Yamaga Onsen.
Kikuchi Information Centre (23-1155), near the bus station, has maps and brochures in English.
Outside Kikuchi Onsen, Kikuchi Gorge (donation ¥100; mid-Apr–Nov), formed by Mt Aso’s outer edge, has walking trails that follow the Kikuchi-gawa’s cool and clear waters through groves of elm, camphor and refreshingly cool waters. Back in town, the hot-springs ryokan, minshuku and hotels are clustered together on a quiet maze of streets, just downhill from an imposing statue of a feudal lord on horseback.
Day-trippers should try the riverside onsen (¥500) at Iwakura Ryokan (27-0026).
Last updated: Feb 17, 2009
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