Nijō-Jō

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  • Address
    Horikawa Nishi iru Nijō-dōri, Nijōjō-chō 541, Nakagyō-ku Northwest Kyoto
  • Phone
    841 0096
  • Transport
    underground rail: 1min walk from Nijōjō-mae Station, Tōzai subway line, 1min walk from Nijōjō-mae Station, Tōzai line

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Lonely Planet review

For those with an interest in Japan's feudal past and an eye for magnificent interiors, Nijō-jō is a fascinating destination. Keep in mind, though, that the castle is on the itinerary of every foreign and Japanese tour group and it can be packed. If you're after peace and quiet, try an early-morning or late-afternoon visit.

Nijō-jō was built in 1603 as the official residence of Tokugawa Ieyasu. The ostentatious style was intended as a demonstration of Ieyasu's prestige and to signal the demise of the emperor's power.

To safeguard against treachery, Ieyasu had the interior fitted with 'nightingale' floors (intruders were detected by the squeaking boards) and concealed chambers where bodyguards could keep watch and spring out at a moment's notice. Fans of ninja movies will recognise the features immediately. The Momoyama-era Kara-mon gate, originally part of Hideyoshi's Fushimi-jō in the south of the city, features lavish, masterful woodcarving and metalwork. After passing through the gate, you enter the Ninomaru palace, which is divided into five buildings with numerous chambers. Access to the buildings used to depend on rank - only those of highest rank were permitted into the inner buildings. The Ōhiroma Yon-no-Ma (Fourth Chamber) has spectacular screen paintings.

Don't miss Seiryu-en, designed by Kobori Enshū. This vast garden comprises three separate islets spanned by stone bridges and is meticulously kept. The Ninomaru palace and garden take about an hour to walk through. A detailed fact sheet in English is provided.

The neighbouring Honmaru palace dates from the mid-19th century. After the Meiji Restoration in 1868, the castle became a detached palace of the imperial household and in 1939 it was given to Kyoto City. It's only open for a special autumn viewing.

While you're in the neighbourhood, you might want to take a look at Shinsen-en (admission free), just south of the castle outside the walls. This forlorn garden, with its small shrines and pond, is all that remains of the original 8th-century Imperial Palace, which was abandoned in 1227.