Shikotsu-tōya National Park

Introducing Shikotsu-tōya National Park

Part of Shikotsu-Tōya National Park (983 sq km), Tōya-ko is a large and beautiful lake, though its beauty is somewhat marred by huge hotels on the southern perimeter. Its volcanoes are still making headlines: Usu-zan erupted quite violently in 2000, sending boulders thousands of feet into the air.

In 1943, after a series of earthquakes, Shōwa-Shin-zan () emerged as an upstart bump in some vegetable fields southeast of Tōya-ko Onsen. It then surged upwards for two more years to reach its present height of 398m. At the time, Japanese officials were keen to hush it up as they thought it was a bad omen and might portend an inauspicious end to WWII. Local officials were urged to douse the volcanic flames (they didn’t) so that Allied aircraft couldn’t use them for orientation. Shōwa-Shin-zan is still belching sulphurous fumes, creating an awesome spectacle for visitors and keeping local officials nervous about its next move.

Nearby, Usu-zan (; 729m), a taller and more formidable volcano, has also been just as active, erupting violently in March 2000. The ash cloud that rained down on Tōya-ko was 2700m high, and volcanic bombs threatened to down news helicopters. There’s a ropeway (; cable car; 75-2401; return ¥1450; Jan-Nov) to the peak of Usu-zan. It’s closed for a week in both January and February.

Behind the tourist shops, the small Mimatsu Masao Memorial Museum (75-2365; admission ¥300; 8am-5pm Apr-Oct, 9am-4pm Nov-Mar) is devoted to the local postmaster, who purchased the volcano in 1946 (for the princely sum of ¥28, 000). He spent years diagramming its growth using an ingenious method that has become a standard among volcanologists today. English signage in the museum is limited.

The Nishiyama Crater Promenade (closed 10 Nov-20 Apr) is a bit like walking through an area after a bomb blast. Steam hisses out of fissures, azure ponds bubble from boiling underground springs, and houses and roads are crushed and mangled. The entrance is about 10 minutes by bus (¥160) from Tōya-ko Onsen; it costs ¥300 to park your own vehicle in the expansive carpark. It is sometimes closed due to dangerous levels of toxic gas.

For something sedentary, check out the movie at the Volcanic Science Museum (; 75-4400; admission ¥600; 9am-5pm) above the Tōya-ko Onsen bus terminal.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009