Esashi

Introducing Esashi

If Matsumae was Hokkaidō‘s Edo-period political centre, Esashi was the economic centre. It’s still an important fishing town (herring – until the stocks were depleted in the early 20th century – and other seafood now). A number of nishingoten (herring barons’ homes) once dominated the shoreline, and several are still quite well preserved.

Yokoyama House (;52-0018; admission ¥300) and Nakamura House (;52-1617; admission ¥300) are good places to start, although there are numerous other houses to view and a trip to Esashi could easily fill the better part of an afternoon. Both are open all year round, but close on Monday during the winter. Call ahead for an appointment at Yokoyama House from November to April.

Listen to performances of Esashi Oiwake, a nationally known music style, at Esashi Oiwake Museum (;52-0920; admission ¥500; closed Mon in winter). Shows are held at 11am, 1pm and 2.30pm. It’s high-pitched, nasal singing that will either fascinate or make you want to cover your ears.

Esashi holds an annual festival, the Ubagami Matsuri (; 9-11 August, when streets fill with more than a dozen floats in honour of Ubagami Daijingu, the oldest shrine in Hokkaidō, which was built to invoke a successful herring catch over 350 years ago. Some of the floats are antiques.

Esashi is also the most convenient gateway to Okushiri-tō, a sleepy island with small fishing villages, few foreign visitors, gorgeous coastal scenery and some tourist attractions.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009