Introducing Tsumago & Magome

These are two of the most attractive Nakasendō towns. Both close their main streets to vehicular traffic and they’re connected by an agreeable hike.

Tsumago feels like an open-air museum, about 15 minutes’ walk from end to end. It was designated by the government as a protected area for the preservation of traditional buildings so no modern developments such as telephone poles are allowed to mar the scene. The darkwood glory of its lattice-fronted houses and gently sloping tile roofs is particularly beautiful in early morning mist. Many films and TV shows have been shot on its main street.

Tsumago’s tourist information office (57-3123; fax 57-4036; 8.30am-5pm) is in the centre of town, by the antique phone booth. Some English is spoken and there’s English-language literature.

Down the street and across, Waki-honjin (57-3322; adult/child ¥600/300; 9am-5pm) is a former rest stop for retainers of daimyō on the Nakasendō. Reconstructed in 1877 under special dispensation from the emperor Meiji, it contains a lovely moss garden and a special toilet built in case Meiji happened to show up (apparently he never did). If some elements remind you of Japanese castles, that’s because the Waki-honjin was built by a former castle builder, out of work due to Meiji’s antifeudal policies. The Shiryōkan (local history museum) here houses elegant exhibitions about Kiso and the Nakasendō, with some English signage.

Across from the Shiryōkan, Tsumago Honjin (57-3322; adult/child ¥300/150; 9am-5pm) is where the daimyō themselves spent the night, though this building is more noteworthy for its architecture than its exhibits. A combined ticket (¥700/350) gives you admission to the Waki-honjin and Shiryōkan as well.

Kisoji-kan (58-2046; baths ¥700; 10am-8pm), a few hilly kilometres above Tsumago, is a tourist facility with a raging souvenir shop. The real reason to visit is the rotemburo with panoramic mountain vistas. Some Tsumago lodgings offer discount tickets, and there’s a free shuttle bus to/from Tsumago’s car park No 1 (10 minutes, at least hourly) and Nagiso.

On 23 November, the Fuzoku Emaki Parade is held along the Nakasendō in Tsumago, featuring townsfolk in Edo-period costume.

Magome, the next post town south, is more modern, with houses, restaurants, inns (and souvenir shops) lining a steep, cobblestone pedestrian road. Even if only some structures are Edo-style, Magome is undeniably pretty and has broad views. At the tourist information office (59-2336; fax 59-2653; 8.30am-5pm), about halfway up the hill on the right, you can pick up maps and staff will book accommodation.

Magome was the birthplace of the author Shimazaki Tōson (1872–1943). His masterpiece, Ie (The Family), records the decline of two provincial Kiso families. A museum (59-2047; admission ¥500; 8.30am-5pm Apr-Oct, 8.30am-4.30pm Nov-Mar, closed 2nd Tue, Wed & Thu Dec) is devoted to his life and times, though it’s pretty impenetrable for non-Japanese speakers.

Good gifts from both towns include toys, crafts and household implements made from Kiso hinoki.

The 7.8km hike connecting Tsumago and Magome peaks at the top of the steep pass, Magome-tōge (elevation 801m). From there, the trail to/from Tsumago passes waterfalls, forest and farmland, while the Magome approach is largely on paved road. It takes around 2½ hours to hike between these towns. It’s easier from Magome (elevation 600m) to Tsumago (elevation 420m) than the other way. There are English signs along the way and you’ll have the opportunity to stop off at several small waterfalls en route. The Magome–Tsumago bus (¥640, 30 minutes, at least three daily in each direction) also stops at the pass.

If you’re hiking between Magome and Tsu­mago, the towns offer a handy baggage-forwarding service (per bag ¥500; Mon-Sun late Jul-Aug, Sat, Sun & holidays late Mar-late Nov) from either tourist office to the other. Deposit your bags between 8.30am and 11.30am for delivery by 1pm.