Things to do in Nagoya
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Atsuta-jingū
Hidden among 1000-year-old cypress trees, the 1900-year-old Atsuta-jingū is one of the most sacred shrines in all of Shintō. It houses the kusanagi-no-tsurugi (sacred sword; literally the 'grass-cutting sword'), one of the sanshu no jingi (three regalia) that were, according to legend, handed down to the imperial family by the sun goddess Amaterasu-Ōmikami. (The other two are the curved jewels at the Imperial Palace in Tokyo, and the sacred mirror housed at Ise-jingū.) You won't be able to view the regalia, but don't feel left out; no one but the emperor and a few selected Shintō priests ever get to see them.
There is a small Treasure Hall, housing a changing collecti…
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Nagoya castle
Tokugawa Ieyasu ordered Nagoya castle to be built for his ninth son on the site of an older castle, from 1610 to 1614. Although it was destroyed in WWII and replaced in 1959 with a ferroconcrete replica, it's worth a visit for the fine museum inside featuring armour, treasures and histories of the Oda, Toyotomi and Tokugawa families. A lift will save you climbing stairs. Note the 3m-long replicas of the famous shachi-hoko, gilded dolphin-like sea creatures, at either end of the roof (and in every souvenir shop).
Within the castle grounds, the garden, Ninomaru-en (二の丸園), has a teahouse in an attractive setting. It's particularly lovely during the cherry-blossom season, and…
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Tokugawa Art Museum
A must for anyone with even a passing interest in Japanese culture and history, this museum has a 10,000-plus piece collection that includes National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties that once belonged to the shōgunal family: furnishings, arms and armour, tea-ceremony implements, calligraphy, painted scrolls, lacquerware, and masks and costumes from nō theatre. A priceless 12th-century scroll depicting The Tale of Genji is locked away except for a short stint in late November; the rest of the year, visitors must remain content with a video.
The museum is three minutes' walk from the Tokugawaen-Shindeki bus stop, east of Nagoya-jō.
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Noritake Garden
Take a stroll around Noritake Garden, the tree-planted grounds of the original 1904 factory of one of Japan's best-known porcelain makers. The craft centre offers a peek at the production process and a museum of old Noritake pieces, plus a chance to glaze your own dish (¥1500). The Noritake Gallery has changing exhibitions of paintings, sculpture and ceramic works. Signage is in English throughout, and look for an early kiln and some atmospheric old chimneys, the remains of a 1933 tunnel kiln.
Naturally there are shopping opportunities, including the Box outlet store (open 10am to 6pm), with 30% to 40% discounts on discontinued items.
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Toyota Commemorative Museum of Industry & Technology
Toyota, the world's largest automobile maker, started in another very Japanese industry: weaving. About 10 minutes' walk northwest of Noritake Garden, this excellent museum is on the site of the company's original Nagoya weaving plant (1911). It's filled with displays and demonstrations of metal processing and textile machinery, and hands-on experiences with principles of force, electronics and such, but the rubber meets the road in the 7900-sq-metre automotive pavilion; look out for humanoid robots, too. There's English signage, and an English-language audio guide for ¥200.
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Nagoya Port Area
Redeveloped to attract tourists, the cargo port now boasts several attractions. The hi-tech Port of Nagoya Public Aquarium is one of Japan's largest and it's generally a hit with kids. The Port Building offers good views of the harbour and Ise Bay from 53m up and also contains a Maritime Museum on the 3rd floor and the Fuji Antarctic Exploration Ship outside. Attractions are signposted in English.
Allow 30 minutes to reach Nagoya Port from Nagoya Station by train.
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International Design Centre Nagoya
Just a short walk from Sakae, the futuristic, swooping Nadya Park skyscraper houses the International Design Centre Nagoya. It's a secular shrine to the deities of conceptualisation, form and function, from art deco to the present, from Electrolux to Isamu Noguchi, and from Arne Jacobsen to the Mini Cooper. Signage is in English.
Also in Nadya Park is the Loft department store (ロフト), which design-shoppers will find equally alluring. Nadya Park is about five minutes' walk from Yaba-chō Station.
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Ōsu Kannon temple
The much-visited Ōsu Kannon temple traces its roots back to 1333. The temple was considered so auspicious that Tokugawa Ieyasu ordered that it be moved here around 1610. Although the current buildings are 20th-century reconstructions, it still retains a traditional atmosphere. It's not uncommon to hear chanting piped in throughout the temple grounds.
Ōsu is equally famous for the vibrant shopping district that draws bargain hunters.
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Shopping in Nagoya
The streets around the Ōsu Kannon temple host some of Nagoya's most enthusiastic browsers. Along Ōsu Kannon-dōri and its continuation, Banshō-ji-dōri, a youthful energy fills vintage clothing shops, electronics and music shops, cafés and a hodge-podge of old and new; look for yen=g, which sells used clothing by weight, or Kurazanmai for discount kimono, obi and accessories (though still not cheap-cheap).
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Tarafuku
Ambitious, young gourmets have turned the izakaya (pub-eatery) concept on its head, installing a stainless-steel kitchen in what looks from the outside like a falling-down house. East-West fusion dishes might include airy potato croquettes in a fried tofu crust; tomato and eggplant au gratin; house-cured ham, or beef, in wine sauce; plus wine and cocktail lists. Tarafuku is located diagonally across from both Tōyoko Inns.
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Shopping in Meidōchō district
The specialty in the Meidōchō district, north of Nagoya Station and west of Nagoya-jō, is okashi, Japanese snacks and penny nibbles (sembei rice crackers to sweet-potato sticks, dried fish to sponge cake), plus small toys like action figures, beads and balloons. Dozens of wholesalers display their wares in a manner that may dispel any notion of Japanese neatness.
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Misen
Around the corner from Yabaton, Misen has little atmosphere and no English menu, but the Taiwan rāmen (egg noodles; ¥580) induces rapture – it's a spicy concoction of ground meat, chilli, garlic and green onion, served over noodles in a hearty clear broth. Other faves include gomoku yakisoba (stir-fried noodles; ¥630) and mabō-dōfu (tofu in spicy meat sauce; ¥580).
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Torigin Honten
For top kōchin, Torigin has been going strong for decades. Chicken is served in many forms, including kushiyaki (skewered), kara-age (deep-fried pieces), zōsui (mild rice hotpot) and sashimi (what you think it is). Individual dishes are a bit dainty for the price, but teishoku (set menus; from ¥3000) are more substantial. It's next door to BJ American Dining Bar.
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Port Building
Redeveloped to attract tourists, the cargo port now boasts several attractions, including the Port Building offers good views of the harbour and Ise Bay from 53m up and also contains a Maritime Museum on the 3rd floor and the Fuji Antarctic Exploration Ship outside. Attractions are signposted in English.
Allow 30 minutes to reach Nagoya Port from Nagoya Station by train.
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Yabaton
Throw caution to the wind at this spotless, workmanlike institution for miso-katsu that has been around since 1947. Waraji-tonkatsu is a cutlet flattened to as big as your head, or try kani-korokke (crab croquettes). Yabaton-salada (boiled pork with miso sesame sauce over vegetables) is kinda, sorta good for you. If all else fails, there's the delish teppan-tonkatsu (¥1350), which is a miso pork cutlet on a sizzling plate of cabbage. Look for the pig-in-an-apron logo.
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Atsuta Hōraiken
Honten Atsuta-jingū This hitsumabushi shop, in business since 1873, is revered with good reason. Expect long queues during the summer peak season for hitsumabushi, basted in a secret tare(sauce) and served atop rice in a covered lacquered bowl (¥2730); add green onion, wasabi and dashi (fish broth) to your taste. Other teishoku (set menus) include tempura and steak. There's another branch a few blocks away, near Atsuta-jingū. The main branch has more atmosphere but also more smokers; avoid on Saturdays.
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Shopping Centres
Other major shopping districts are in Sakae and around Nagoya Station with malls above ground and below. For crafts, browse in the giant department stores, such as Matsuzakaya (two locations, next to Nagoya Station and in Sakae), Maruei and Mitsukoshi in Sakae, or Takashimaya or Meitetsu & Kintetsu near Nagoya Station.
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Nanaya Colonial
This fashionable restaurant overlooking the Hori-kawa serves beautifully presented Pan-Asian dishes to match its Asian-modern style. Among the eclectic choices: Chinese yam with scallops, rare tuna steak and grilled eel with rice. Open 'til midnight for stylish drinks too.
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Electric Lady Land
An intimate concert venue purveying the underground music scene in a cool, postindustrial setting. Nationally known bands perform in the 1st-floor hall, while the 3rd floor sees more up-and-coming acts.
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Elephant's Nest
Near the Hilton, Elephant's Nest is a favourite expat haunt, with a welcoming vibe, darts and traditional fare like Irish stew (¥1000). It's on the 2nd floor.
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Nagoya/Boston Museum of Fine Arts
This excellent museum is a collaborative effort between Japanese backers and the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. Rotating exhibitions showcase both Japanese and non-Japanese masterpieces, and have good English signage.
The museum is to the right of the south exit of Kanayama Station.
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Shooters
This US-style sports bar with over a dozen screens attracts a mostly gaijin (foreign), mostly raucous crowd. Japanese and foreign staff pour daily drink specials, and the menu includes burgers, pasta and Tex-Mex. It's on the 2nd floor of the Pola Building, diagonally across from Misono-za.
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Ebisuya
One of the city's best-known kishimen chains, Ebisuya has a laid-back atmosphere and tasty, inexpensive bowls of noodles, which you can often catch being made by the chefs. There's a picture menu available.
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Port of Nagoya Public Aquarium
Redeveloped to attract tourists, the cargo port now boasts several attractions, including the hi-tech Port of Nagoya Public Aquarium is one of Japan's largest and it's generally a hit with kids.
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Ran no Yakata Orchid Gardens
These gardens contain over 250 species of orchid, presented inside a greenhouse and a walled garden, with a path leading through the flowering plants. There are indoor and outdoor cafés.
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