Baldassare Longhena's luminous baroque palace on the Grand Canal celebrates 18th-century decadence in lavish music salons, sumptuous boudoirs and even an attic pharmacy with medicinal scorpions. Giambattista Tiepolo's Throne Room ceiling is a masterpiece of elegant social climbing, showing gorgeous Merit ascending to the Temple of Glory clutching the Golden Book of Venetian nobles' names – including Tiepolo's patrons, the Rezzonico family.

Collection highlights include the Pietro Longhi Salon of socialite satires, Rosalba Carriera's wry society portraits, Giandomenico Tiepolo's swinging court jesters in reassembled Zianigo Villa bedroom frescoes, and Emma Ciardi's moody Venice views on the top floor. Last entry is an hour before closing; check the schedule downstairs for concerts in the trompe l'œil frescoed ballroom.