Must-see restaurants in Southern Italy

  • Soul & Fish

    Sorrento

    Soul & Fish has a hipper vibe than Marina Grande’s no-nonsense seafood restaurants. Your bread comes in a bag, your dessert might come in a Kilner jar and…

  • Porto Bello

    Salina

    For some of Santa Marina's best seafood head for this restaurant with a terrace overlooking the harbour, run by the same family since 1978. In low season,…

  • Caracalè

    Procida

    Along this unpretentious marina with its old fishing boats, piled fishing nets and haughty cats, half-a-dozen fine restaurants call out like mythological…

  • Cicirinella

    Salerno

    This place, tucked behind the cathedral, has that winning combination of an earthy and inviting atmosphere and unfailingly good, delicately composed…

  • SoFish

    Otranto

    A modern update on a traditional friggitoria, SoFish features excellent fried seafood, good salads – the one with huge slabs of seared tuna almost…

  • E Pulera

    Lipari

    With its serene garden setting, low lighting, tile-topped tables and exquisite food – from tuna carpaccio with blood oranges and capers for dinner to…

  • La Cambusa

    Positano

    Sporting summery pastel hues and a seafront terrace, La Cambusa is on the front line, which, given the number of cash-rich tourists in these parts, could…

  • Ristoro dello Scoiattolo

    Tyrrhenian Coast

    Perched at 1600m, near the base of the Mufara ski slope, this rustic year-round restaurant is Piano Battaglia's perennial favourite spot to indulge in…

  • La Pinnata del Monsù

    Salina

    With a sunny terrace overlooking the vineyards and the sea at Malfa's southern edge, this relaxed trattoria serves up superbly rendered Sicilian classics…

  • Ristorante Al Dragone

    Vieste

    Located in a limestone cave dating back around 1000 years, Al Dragone is Vieste's classiest fine-dining restaurant. Local produce and ingredients…

  • La Vie del Gusto

    Reggio Calabria

    Local Calabrian flavours shine at this friendly and informal spot where the menu changes regularly on a seasonal basis. Meaty favourites like Calabrian…

  • Seafood Market

    Bari

    Just maybe Puglia's freshest raw seafood – including squid, oysters and briny sea urchins – is served outside at simple tables by Bari's wise-cracking…

  • Marina Grande

    Amalfi

    Run by the third generation of the same family, this savvy beachfront favourite serves fish so fresh it's almost flapping. It prides itself on the use of…

  • Mastro Ciccio

    Bari

    Top-notch salads and panini sandwiches crammed with local products including octopus, ham, buffalo mozzarella cheese and pistachios make Mastro Ciccio a…

  • Il Cortiletto

    Promontorio del Gargano

    A superb restaurant with a barrel-vault interior, central courtyard and a menu that includes traditional dishes like orecchiette with cime di rape (bitter…

  • Baldo Gelato

    Lecce

    The couple behind Baldo Gelato make the best gelato in Lecce, hands down. The dark chocolate may be the most intensely chocolatey thing you've ever put in…

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    L'Abbondanza Lucana

    Matera

    The paradoxical bounty of Lucania's cucina povera is laid out before you in this stone cellar in Sasso Caveoso. For a fantastic introduction to a range of…

  • 2AMFMT5 Pizza at Pizzeria da Michele, Naples, Italy
2AMFMT5
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    Da Michele

    Naples

    Veteran pizzeria Da Michele continues to keep things plain and simple: unadorned marble tabletops, brisk service and two types of pizza – margherita or…

  • La Taverna a Santa Chiara

    Naples

    Gragnano pasta, Agerola pork, salsiccia rossa di Castelpoto (cured pork sausage with toasted peppers) and conciato romano (regional cheese made with cow's…

  • Trattoria di De Fiore

    Catania

    For over 50 years, chef Rosanna (yes, that's her in Jamie Oliver's TV series Jamie Cooks Italy) has been recreating her great-grandmother's recipes,…

  • Da Ettore

    Naples

    Its name in green neon, this wood-panelled octogenarian celebrates tradition with quick-witted veteran waiters, faithful regulars and a roaming Neapolitan…

  • Anna

    Agropoli

    At the city-centre end of the promenade, no-fuss Anna has been a local favourite for decades. Family-run, with a B&B upstairs, it's best known for its…

  • Gran Caffè Marianiello

    Sorrento Peninsula

    Ask any local buongustaio (foodie) where to get the best cornetto (croissant) and chances are you'll get directed to this modern, piazza-side cafe. In…

  • Cibi Cotti

    Naples

    Nonna Anna may have gone to the great kitchen in the sky, but her loud, tiled lunch spot kicks on. Hidden at the back of a market arcade, Cibi Cotti…

  • Toto Passami L'Olio

    Milazzo

    Specialising in locally sourced 'km0' cuisine, this intriguing restaurant serves up creative dishes built around sometimes obscure ingredients, with vegan…

  • Pasticceria Bar Romano

    Sorrento Peninsula

    Sunday lunches in Sorrento homes often conclude with a tray of treats from Romano, considered one of the area's top pasticcerie (pastry shops). Scan the…

  • Osteria al Canale

    Enna

    Enna foodies know all about this simple village eatery, a 24km drive southeast of Enna. Lorded over by head chef Lillo Serra, its shtick is honest,…

  • 210 Grammi

    Trapani

    What with the giant pasta pictures splashed above the white-tiled open kitchen and the photo-loaded tablet provided alongside printed menus, it's…

  • La Capannina

    Capri

    Dating back to 1931, this is the island’s most famous traditional trattoria and a long-time favourite on the celebrity circuit. Set up to look like a…

  • Pasticceria Di Costanzo

    Naples

    Colourful, technically impressive and ridiculously cute, Mario Di Costanzo's sweet treats are what Instagram dreams are made of. The young pastry chef…

  • La Campagnola

    Naples

    Spruced-up with retro-style tiles and vintage-style lamps, this perennially popular stalwart serves unfussed, soul-coaxing Neapolitan grub. Standout…

  • Aurora Light

    Sorrento

    Now for something completely different. At first glance the menu here looks more Californian than Campanian, with imaginative salads such as spicy…

  • La Bettola del Gusto

    Pompeii

    Inspired by their mother Rosa's cooking, twins Alberto and Vincenzo Fortunato are the force behind this warm, good-value restaurant. The kitchen revels in…

  • Viva Lo Re

    Bay of Naples

    Whether you're after an inspired meal or a simple glass of vino, this refined yet relaxed osteria (casual tavern) is a solid choice. The wine list is…

  • Biancomangiare

    Naples

    Biancomangiare gives the classic trattoria a subtle modern makeover, its vintage photographs and pale-blue wooden chairs mixing it with low-slung filament…

  • I Tre Gufi

    Cilento Coast

    Follow the signs from Pisciotta's sweeping Piazza Raffaele Pinto to this restaurant in a star setting, its long, wide terrace overlooking the pine…

  • Tischi Toschi

    Taormina

    With only a handful of tables (book ahead), this generous, Slow Food–acclaimed trattoria offers a level of creativity and attention to detail generally…

  • Sofì Street Food

    Pompeii

    Sofì hits the spot with cheap, tasty Neapolitan street food like rustic panino napoletano, a doughy roll stuffed with cheese and salami. Other options…

  • Trattoria Mangia e Bevi

    Naples

    Gigi Grasso's loud and lively Eat & Drink sees everyone from pierced students to bespectacled professori squeeze around the communal tables for delicious…

  • Osteria Il Grappolo

    Mediterranean Coast

    A friendly neighborhood osteria (casual tavern), Salvatore Ciaccio's 'Grappolo' embraces the Slow Food aesthetic: carefully chosen local ingredients…

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