Must-see restaurants in Southern Italy

  • Viva Lo Re

    Bay of Naples

    Whether you're after an inspired meal or a simple glass of vino, this refined yet relaxed osteria (casual tavern) is a solid choice. The wine list is…

  • Biancomangiare

    Naples

    Biancomangiare gives the classic trattoria a subtle modern makeover, its vintage photographs and pale-blue wooden chairs mixing it with low-slung filament…

  • I Tre Gufi

    Cilento Coast

    Follow the signs from Pisciotta's sweeping Piazza Raffaele Pinto to this restaurant in a star setting, its long, wide terrace overlooking the pine…

  • Tischi Toschi

    Taormina

    With only a handful of tables (book ahead), this generous, Slow Food–acclaimed trattoria offers a level of creativity and attention to detail generally…

  • Sofì Street Food

    Pompeii

    Sofì hits the spot with cheap, tasty Neapolitan street food like rustic panino napoletano, a doughy roll stuffed with cheese and salami. Other options…

  • Trattoria Mangia e Bevi

    Naples

    Gigi Grasso's loud and lively Eat & Drink sees everyone from pierced students to bespectacled professori squeeze around the communal tables for delicious…

  • Osteria Il Grappolo

    Mediterranean Coast

    A friendly neighborhood osteria (casual tavern), Salvatore Ciaccio's 'Grappolo' embraces the Slow Food aesthetic: carefully chosen local ingredients…

  • Eyem Zemen

    Western Sicily

    For a taste of Tunisia, try this delightful hole-in-the-wall in the heart of La Casbah, marked by a bilingual Italian-Arabic sign. Tunisian owner Fatiha…

  • Bisso Bistrot

    Palermo

    Frescoed walls, exposed ceiling beams and reasonably priced appetisers, primi (first courses) and secondi (main courses) greet diners at this swinging,…

  • Ristorante Il Cantuccio

    Noto

    Tucked into the courtyard of a former noble's palace, this inviting restaurant combines familiar Sicilian ingredients in inspired ways. Perennial…

  • FUD Bottega Sicula

    Catania

    With sharp service and pavement seating on trendy Via Santa Filomena, this hip, back-alley eatery epitomises youthful Catania's embrace of 'Sicilian fast…

  • Da Cicciotto

    Naples

    Perched on a cliff in the fishing village of Marechiaro, low-key yet elegant Da Cicciotto is a seasoned charmer. Edible highlights include a sublime…

  • Melius

    Pompeii

    Stop by this luscious gourmet deli to revel in the taste of Campania. There's a vibrant in-house restaurant where you can sit down to local delicacies…

  • À Putia

    Giardini-Naxos

    Tiny enoteca À Putia draws picky locals with its quality regional dishes. Tuck into a standout caponata (sweet-and-sour vegetable salad), pasta options…

  • La Cialoma

    Southeastern Sicily

    Food-lovers flock here from across the southeast for long, lazy seafood feasts on the piazza or seaside terrace (book ahead). The latter is especially…

  • Delicatessen in Drogheria

    Ragusa

    DID is a hip deli-cafe-bistro in one, with communal tables, bar seating and playful '70s-style wallpaper running up the wall and ceiling. The open kitchen…

  • Micro

    Cisternino

    This charismatic little juice bar/lunch spot is the necessary counterbalance to the meaty excesses Cisternino is famous for. Market-fresh vegetables and…

  • La Rondinella

    Capri

    Graham Greene's favourite hang-out when he lived in these parts, La Rondinella sits in the heart of whitewashed Anacapri. Who knows what literary nuggets…

  • Lo Scoglio

    Sorrento Peninsula

    The only marina restaurant directly accessible from the sea, Lo Scoglio is a favourite of visiting celebs and has been around since the 1950s, when the…

  • La Conchiglia

    Procida

    The 'seashell' is secluded on a narrow dark-sand beach with a warped jetty and the pastel jumble of Marina Corricella in the distance (take the steep…

  • Divino

    Cilento Coast

    Follow the signs to La Piazzetta from the castle, via a short tunnel, and blink hard when you emerge at this movie-set marvel of a piazza, with its…

  • Pasticceria Poppella

    Naples

    Neapolitans from across the city revere this light, upbeat pastry shop for its fiocco di neve (snowflake), a soft, small brioche, dusted in icing sugar…

  • L’Approdo

    Capri

    If you've arrived on the ferry with an appetite, head here, a two-minute walk to the left from where you disembark. You can easily fill up on the superb…

  • FUD

    Palermo

    Slick, youthful and buzzing, FUD gives fast food a Slow Food makeover. Offerings include cheese and charcuterie platters, salads and panini, all playing…

  • Ristorante & Pizzeria da Gigino

    Vico Equense

    Run by the five sons of pizza king Gigino Dell’Amura, who introduced pizza by the metre to the world, this giant cafeteria-like pizzeria – the self…

  • Osteria Bacchus

    Cefalù

    Far from the madding crowd that descends on Cefalù each summer, this family-run restaurant in nearby Sant'Ambrogio boasts a relaxed and breezy terrace…

  • Lo Smeraldino

    Amalfi

    Situated west of the centre, on the waterfront overlooking the fishing boats, this inviting blue-and-white beachside restaurant was founded in 1949. As…

  • 100 Grammi

    Sorrento

    The Slow Food movement might have originated in Italy, but there isn't always time to wait 45 minutes for your hand-pinched ravioli. In which case, decamp…

  • Funiculi Funiculá

    Massa Lubrense

    FF is a jack of all trades overlooking Marina della Lobra’s dinky harbor where the parked cars are usually Fiat 500s and the moored boats are equally…

  • Pasticceria Cappello

    Palermo

    One of Palermo's finest bakeries, Cappello is famous for its setteveli (seven-layer chocolate-hazelnut cake), invented here and long since copied all over…

  • Al Grottino

    Capri

    Expect a queue here. Dating from 1937, Al Grottino was a VIP spot in the '50s and '60s (check out the photos in the window), and it continues to lure…

  • Ostello

    Catania

    Pub-like Ostello personifies Catania: grungy, youthful and arty. Hunker down among students, professors and backpackers for decent bulgur-and-vegetable…

  • Attanasio

    Naples

    So you thought a sfogliatella from Pintauro was crispy perfection? Bite into the piping-hot ricotta filling at this retro pastry peddler and prepare to…

  • Cutilisci

    Catania

    When the weather's fine, the tables are out on the pavement terrace at Cutilisci, a much-loved waterfront restaurant in the harbour of San Giovanni li…

  • Antico Orto Dei Limoni

    Mount Etna

    There can be few better ways of rounding off a day in the mountains than with a meal at this Nicolosi stalwart. Occupying a converted wine and oil press,…

  • Ristorante Centro Storico

    Central Sicily

    Owned and run by a warm, hospitable couple, Centro Storico is all about gorgeous produce cooked with love and pride. Trust the staff's suggestions, which…

  • Tarallificio Esposito

    Naples

    Made with pepper, almonds and pork fat, oven-baked taralli mandorlati (savoury almond biscuits) are dangerously addictive and readily available at this…

  • Osteria dei Sapori Perduti

    Modica

    Nostalgia rules the roost at bustling, affable 'Osteria of the Forgotten Flavours', right on Modica's main drag. Decked out in a jumble of traditional…

  • La Taverna del Duca

    Amalfi

    Grab a chair on the square at this popular fish restaurant. Specials vary according to the catch of the day but might include carpaccio di baccalà (thin…

  • Trattoria Il Rifugio della Buona Stella

    Lecce

    A third-generation family restaurant in a gorgeous Leccese building with sandy stone walls and medieval decor, this wonderful trattoria serves utterly…

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