Must-see restaurants in Southern Italy

  • Ristorante Don Alfonso 1890

    Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi

    Don Alsonso is as much an experience as a meal – and a world-class one at that. Not only is the food exquisite, creative and true to its Sorrentino roots;…

  • Concettina Ai Tre Santi

    Naples

    Head in by noon (or 7.30pm at dinner) to avoid a long wait at this hot-spot pizzeria, made famous thanks to its young, driven pizzaiolo Ciro Oliva. The…

  • Ristorante La Caravella

    Amalfi

    A restaurant of artists, art and artistry, Caravella once hosted Andy Warhol. No surprise that it doubles up as a de-facto gallery with frescoes, creative…

  • President

    Pompeii

    At the helm of this Michelin-starred standout is charming owner-chef Paolo Gramaglia, whose passion for local produce, history and culinary whimsy…

  • Pasticceria di Maria Grammatico

    Erice

    This cafe-pasticceria is run by Maria Grammatico, Sicily's most famous pastry chef, and the subject of Mary Taylor Simeti's book Bitter Almonds – a series…

  • Casale Drinzi

    Tyrrhenian Coast

    This wooden chalet in the hills immediately above Collesano is one of the Madonie's gems – one whiff of the delicious aromas emanating from the kitchen…

  • Capo Blu

    Bay of Naples

    Decked out in model boats and local artwork, casual, affable Capo Blu serves up antipasti worthy of a fine-dining menu. The multicourse assaggio di…

  • Donna Rosa

    Positano

    Once a humble trattoria, Donna Rosa is now considered an Amalfi Coast classic despite its out-of-the-way location in the village of Montepertuso. The…

  • Casa Mele

    Positano

    Something of a rarity in this land of traditional trattorias, Casa Mele is one of those cool contemporary restaurants with a lengthy tasting menu and food…

  • Hotel-Ristorante Pocho

    Western Sicily

    Dinner is an unforgettable feast for the eyes and palate at this sensational hotel-restaurant, dramatically perched on a cliff edge overlooking Isulidda…

  • Mariterraneo

    Salerno

    Hard to find, this new purveyor of Slow Food shines brightly amid the grubby graffiti, drying washing and overflowing bins of the centro storico (historic…

  • Hostaria Del Vicolo

    Mediterranean Coast

    Tucked away in a tiny alley in the old town, this formal restaurant is a culinary tour de force, with heavy tablecloths, noiseless service and an ample…

  • Il Focolare

    Ischia

    A good choice for those seeking a little turf instead of surf, this is one of the island’s best-loved restaurants. Family run, homely and rustic, it has a…

  • Moon

    Syracuse

    This moody, boho-chic restaurant and bar makes vegan food so good even a hardcore carnivore could convert. A cast of mostly organic and biodynamic…

  • I Dolci di Nonna Vincenza

    Catania

    Nuns taught a young Nonna Vincenza the art of baking. Today, her fragrant sweets are the stuff of glutinous dreams. Under huge chandeliers, counters gleam…

  • I Sapori

    Western Sicily

    Pure paradise for meat lovers, this highly recommended Sicilian grill cooks up top-quality cuts from the adjoining butcher's shop. Be it Tuscan Chianina…

  • I Segreti del Chiostro

    Palermo

    Countless blessings await at this extraordinary pasticceria, hidden away in a former convent. The culmination of endless hours of research, it uses once…

  • Da Salvatore

    Tyrrhenian Coast

    Salvatore Ruvutuso, his wife Maria and two children run this Slow Food–acclaimed trattoria with its summertime sidewalk seating and wonderfully cosy…

  • Al Trabucco da Mimì

    Peschici

    Mimì sadly passed away in 2016, but his extended family keep this delightful place ticking. Sitting on wooden trestles beneath the trabucco (a traditional…

  • Ornato

    Modica

    The decorative tagines at stylish Ornato reflect Luca Ornato's love of global flavours, a fact also echoed in out-of-the-box dishes like crudo (raw…

  • La Palette

    Capri

    Local Caprese ingredients are combined into the most flavour-filled, creative dishes possible here. Expect the delights of zucchini flowers stuffed with…

  • Mè Cumpari Turiddu

    Catania

    Old chandeliers, recycled furniture and vintage mirrors exude a nostalgic air at this quirky bistro-restaurant-providore, where tradition and modernity…

  • A Fuoco Lento

    Tyrrhenian Coast

    At this intimate stone-walled gem of a restaurant in Cipampini, 10km below Petralia Soprana, chef-owners Diego and Patrizia seat only 30 people each…

  • Al Bagatto

    Milazzo

    Three decades after opening as one of the region's first wine bars, this place is still thriving under affable chef-owner Chiara Surdo. Mellow music and…

  • Salumeria

    Naples

    Small producers, local ingredients and contemporary takes on provincial Campanian recipes drive bistro-inspired Salumeria. Nibble on quality charcuterie…

  • Umbriaco

    Enna

    Slow Food and organic ingredients are harnessed for some of Sicily's best arancini (stuffed deep-fried rice ball). Flavours often showcase what is…

  • 50 Kalò

    Naples

    That this trendy pizzeria's name roughly translates as 'good dough' in Neapolitan is no coincidence. At the helm is third-generation pizzaiolo Ciro Salvo,…

  • Da Ettore

    Naples

    This homey, eight-table trattoria has an epic reputation. Scan the walls for famous fans like comedy great Totò, and a framed passage from crime writer…

  • È Divino

    Capri

    Proudly eccentric (what other restaurant has a bed in its dining room?), this diligent purveyor of Slow Food is a precious secret to those who know it…

  • L'Ebbrezza di Noè

    Naples

    A wine shop by day, 'Noah's Drunkenness' transforms into an intimate culinary hot spot by night. Slip inside for vino and conversation with sommelier Luca…

  • Sfogliatella Mary

    Naples

    At the Via Toledo entrance to Galleria Umberto I, this tiny takeaway vendor is widely considered the queen of the sfogliatella. Usually still warm from…

  • Il Barcaiolo

    Taormina

    Book five days ahead come summer, when every buongustaio (foodie) and hopeless romantic longs for a table at this fabulous trattoria. Set snugly in a boat…

  • Da Vittorio

    Western Sicily

    Travellers with their own vehicles should consider detouring 15km east of Selinunte to this venerable eatery right on the beach in Porto Palo. In business…

  • Osteria del Sotto Sale

    Western Sicily

    The atmosphere is casual-chic at this welcoming osteria (tavern) with indoor and outdoor seating on Favignana's main pedestrian street. An offshoot of the…

  • Kalòs

    Agrigento

    For fine dining, head to this restaurant just outside the historic centre. Tables on little balconies offer a delightful setting to enjoy homemade pasta…

  • Da Emilia

    Sorrento

    Founded in 1947 and still run by the same family, this is a friendly, fast-moving joint overlooking the fishing boats in Marina Grande. There’s a large…

  • Ristorante Pietratorcia

    Ischia

    Enjoying a bucolic setting among tumbling vines, wild fig trees and rosemary bushes, this A-list winery is a showcase for Ischian cooking. Tour the old…

  • Accursio

    Modica

    While we love the modernist furniture and vintage Sicilian tiles, the food is the real thrill at this intimate, Michelin-starred maverick. Head chef…

  • Il Gelato Mennella

    Naples

    Could it be ingredients like prized Campanian nocciole (hazelnuts) from Giffoni and Sicilian pistachios from Bronte? Perhaps it's the absence of…

  • La Torre

    Massa Lubrense

    Not quite in Massa, but almost, La Torre has its berth in Annuziata, an attractive little borgo on a hill overlooking the Gulf of Naples. Occupying a…

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