Catania
It may not be the best pizzeria in town, but Locanda Cerami lures with its fabulous setting – in the warmer months, tables spread directly below the steps…
Must-see restaurants in Southern Italy
Naples
A labourers lunch is the most affordable way to try the best Neapolitan grub. Places such as this cavernous spot are only open at lunchtime and…
Noto
Up in Noto Alta, this dimly lit, Slow Food–acclaimed restaurant with an extensive wine list is widely regarded as Noto's best. While much of the menu is…
Lecce
A warmly inviting restaurant, this good-value trattoria is known for regional classics. As is proper to Puglia's 'cuisine of the poor', it's often the…
The Amalfi Coast
Modest trattoria with spectacular views over the coast, located just past the finishing post on the Sentiero degli Dei. The menu is short and traditional,…
Amalfi
The obvious choice just off Piazza del Duomo, this cavernous place attracts a dedicated crowd ranging from off-the-yacht Neapolitans to coachloads of…
Taormina
Forget the staid, pricey restaurant upstairs; Granduca's charm lies entirely in its vast, lower-level outdoor terrace overlooking the sea – pizza here on…
Palermo
Chintzy Touring is known for its arancine, great fist-sized rice balls stuffed with ragù, spinach or butter, and fried to a perfect golden orange. While…
Ragusa
This cosy, popular Sicilian-Slovak–run eatery near the Giardino Ibleo serves up hearty, home-style dishes. Slovak-inspired offerings such as goulash and…
Naples
Hidden off the chaotic Pignasecca market, this discreet but delicious tavola calda ('hot table') is run by head chef Enzo, who has been feeding hordes of…
Salerno
The surrounding Via Roma area may be one of the city’s trendiest, but there’s nothing remotely flash about the seafood served up in this old stalwart…
Cilento Coast
Part of the Albergo Santa Caterina, this L-shaped bar serves the best ice cream in town with semi freddi (semi cold) and yoghurt-based ices, as well as…
Ischia
This friendly place is just across the road from the beach and serves excellent dishes to locals and wised-up tourists; seafood is the speciality. Sit on…
Palermo
Marble floors, wooden panels and dapper waiters channel old-school Palermo at this 1860 veteran. If the weather is on your side, watch the world go by…
Matera
'The Mole' has burrowed itself comfortably inside one of Sasso Barisano's caverns, creating a rustic dining experience. With plates of Lucanian (aka…
Mediterranean Coast
Yes, you can dine on seafood here – as with all of Sciacca's portside restaurants – but the budget-minded will also find it a prime spot to sip sunset…
Gallipoli
For good Gallipoli spumone (layered ice cream with candied fruit and nuts) and refreshing granite (ices made with coffee, fresh fruit or locally grown…
Praiano
Located on the main street in town, this long-established restaurant has a decent reputation for seafood and pizzas. The dining room has sweeping views…
Ostuni
This laid-back place harnesses the best of the region's produce, from Martina Franca's capocollo (cured pork neck) to whatever's been hauled from the…
Otranto
You can't miss this pizzeria right by the huge Porta Terra as you enter the historic centre. Despite the tourist-trap location, the food doesn't lack…
Brindisi
Established more than 40 years ago in a restored 15th-century palazzo, sophisticated Il Giardino serves refined seafood and meat dishes in a delightful…
Basilicata
The outdoor seating at this cafe in Maratea Borgo's central piazza is ideal for people-watching. The cafe serves snacks such as panini and crostata with…
Matera
This cavernous restaurant with sharp colour accents is a favourite with visitors to Matera, but we were slightly underwhelmed with the service on our last…
Calabria
For expansive sea and castle views dine at this bright and airy seafood specialist. Try the squeaky-fresh crudo di mare (raw seafood) antipasto, the…
Ischia
At the smarter end of the port, this posh cafe employs old-school bow-tied waiters to serve an artistic-looking selection of cakes, pastries, coffees and…
The Amalfi Coast
A deli-cafe in Bomerano’s main square where you can load up on caffeine and cornetti (croissants) before embarking on the Sentiero degli Dei. They also…
Agrigento
Rough stone walls and wood-beamed ceilings lend a cosy atmosphere to this quintessential family-run trattoria, tucked up a side alley in the old town…
Sorrento
Looking more like a science laboratory than an ice-cream parlour, Raki displays a long list of esoteric gelati, all of the flavours are homemade and…
Salerno & the Cilento
Dull building on outskirts of Polla serving notably less dull wheels of pizza, cooked in a wood-fired oven; it also dishes up antipasti and pasta dishes…
Agrigento
The 'Sicilian Embassy' does its utmost to improve foreign relations, plying tourists with tasty plates of traditional Sicilian fare and good seafood. In…
Calabria
Pizzo enjoys something of a reputation for its gelato, and, on the main square, Ercole is reckoned by many to serve the best in town. The most admired…
Agropoli
Fairly scruffy, old-school bar that sells some unusual ice cream flavours, including marron glacé (candied chestnut) and limone sicilia (Sicilian lemon),…
Procida
A retro, no-frills neighbourhood trattoria close to the port. The menu holds few surprises, but the ingredients are fresh; try the spaghetti con frutti di…
Tropea
Set on the lip of Tropea’s stunning cliffs, Pimm’s serves up simple but excellent local seafood, as well as salads starring the town’s prized red onions…
Salerno & the Cilento
Tucked around the corner from the Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore (note the magnificent carved door) in Teggiano's main square, this small bar with its…
Cilento Coast
Run by two brothers, this long-standing roadside restaurant is renowned for its top-notch seafood. Enjoy dishes such as risotto alla pescatora (fisher's…
Tropea
Pesce spada (swordfish) is a speciality on this part of the coast and it rates highly on the menu at this simple seafood place tucked away in the…
Sorrento
It’s too large and bright for a romantic dinner for two, but locals continue to recommend this place for its down-to-earth, well-prepared dishes,…
Western Sicily
A North African theme is evident in both menu and decor at this popular restaurant, which dishes up fish and chicken couscous beneath tented canopies in…
Catania
Catanians of all ages – but especially students – flock here on weekend evenings, drawn by the pizzas, draft beer, cocktails and outdoor courtyard, shaded…
