Must-see restaurants in Southern Italy

  • L'Officina del Cannolo

    Lipari

    On Lipari's main pedestrian thoroughfare, just down from the ferry port, L'Officina incorporates fresh-caught seafood into appetisers (mussel soup, squid…

  • Locanda Don Serafino

    Ragusa

    Powerhouse chef Vincenzo Candiano steers this softly lit, Michelin-starred darling, evocatively set in a series of rocky caves. Reserve a linen-draped…

  • Antica Osteria Da Tonino

    Naples

    Wood-panelled, family-run Da Tonino has been feeding locals since 1880. Now run by the fifth and sixth generations, its gingham-print tables lure everyone…

  • Pasticceria Fratelli Magrì

    Palermo

    This third-generation pastry shop remains one of Palermo's best. Defy your dentist with made-from-scratch staples like cassata or cannolo, or tuck into…

  • Trattoria al Gatto Rosso

    Taranto

    Unsurprisingly, seafood is the thing at the Red Cat. Relaxed and unpretentious, its heavy tablecloths, deep wine glasses and solid cutlery set the scene…

  • L’Antica Trattoria

    Sorrento

    Head to the upstairs terrace with its traditional tiles and trailing grape vines and you seem miles away from the alleyways outside. With a deserved…

  • Bar Nettuno

    Western Sicily

    Tucked into the cobbled courtyard at the heart of Scopello, this busy bar has a lovely terrace that really is ideal for savouring late-afternoon drinks or…

  • Trattoria da Papù

    Western Sicily

    Dodge the tourist crowds and duck into this traditional eatery, complete with fish-net-strung walls and B&W action shots of island fishermen working their…

  • L'Arzilla Furcina

    Lecce

    Tucked away down a shopping street in Lecce's New Town, L'Arzilla Furcina features a compact and stylish space showcasing seasonal and local ingredients…

  • Hosteria Toledo

    Naples

    Family-run since the 1950s, Hosteria Toledo satisfies a longing for old-world charm. With photographs and wine bottles adorning the walls, it is one of…

  • Baqqala

    Southeastern Sicily

    Peppe Mezzasalma's pretty, bohemian eatery serves Sicilian classics with thoughtful tweaks. Daily offerings are respectful of the season and market…

  • Cusiritati

    Panarea

    Since 1970, three generations of women from the same family have run this classy, white-linen-clothed spot above the port. Federica, whose grandmother…

  • Osteria degli Archi

    Vieste

    A classy cut above other Vieste restaurants, Osteria degli Archi offers innovative spins on established flavours and recipes. Standout dishes include…

  • Ristorante Majore

    Southeastern Sicily

    The place to buy ham, and indeed to lunch on superb pork, is Ristorante Majore, a much-acclaimed trattoria just off central Piazza Duomo. It's…

  • La Pineta

    Western Sicily

    You couldn't ask for a peachier beach setting. From the entrance of the Foce del Belice nature preserve on Marinella's far eastern edge, a gravel track…

  • Da Armandino

    Praiano

    Seafood-lovers should head for this widely acclaimed, no-frills restaurant located in a former boatyard on the beach at Marina di Praia. Da Armandino is…

  • Al Tramonto

    Pantelleria

    As the name implies, this hillside-hugging restaurant is the perfect place to watch the tramonto (sunset) – but the food here is equally radiant, from…

  • Da Francesco

    Panarea

    Up a short flight of stairs from the port (follow the signs), Da Francesco is a laid-back trattoria with a straightforward fish-focused menu and fine sea…

  • Sutt'a Ràvia

    Cefalù

    Fresh seafood holds centre stage at this cute blue-and-white trattoria near the beachfront, an offshoot of the neighbouring fish market. Order bargain…

  • Agricolab

    Catania

    Small Sicilian farms and producers are showcased at this hip, upbeat cafe-bistro, run by Singaporean Fawn and her Sicilian partner Giuseppe. Tuck into…

  • Gagini

    Palermo

    Expect sharp professionals and serious gastronomes at Gagini's rustic, candlelit tables. In the kitchen are Massimiliano Mandozzi and Elnava De Rosa,…

  • Numero Primo

    Brindisi

    This stylish glass pavilion along Brindisi's seafront is the showcase restaurant for Puglia's Tenute Rubino winery. Local seafood like octopus and tuna is…

  • La Cucina dei Colori

    Catania

    Take away or dine in at communal tables at this contemporary ode to seasonal, organic, meat-free nosh. Scan the counters for the daily-changing options,…

  • Le Tre Bocche

    Catania

    Reservations are essential at this Slow Food–recommended restaurant, which even has its own stand at La Pescheria market. The tasting of antipasti is a…

  • Le Macine

    Lipari

    This country restaurant in Pianoconte, 4.5km from Lipari Town, comes into its own in summer, when meals are served on the terrace. Seafood and fresh…

  • Eccellenze Campane

    Naples

    This is Naples' answer to Turin-based food emporium Eataly, a warehouse-like showcase for top-notch Campanian comestibles. The sprawling space is divided…

  • Baguetteria de Pace

    Gallipoli

    The Italian art of making exceptional sandwiches is practised assiduously here. Choose the dense Italian bread (or a baguette if you're feeling fluffy)…

  • Rosticceria L'Antico Borgo

    Cisternino

    A classic fornello pronto (half butcher's shop, half trattoria), this is the place for a cheerful, no-frills meat fest. The menu is brief, listing a few…

  • I Rizzari

    Southeastern Sicily

    If you're travelling between Catania and Syracuse, book a table (at least two days ahead in summer) at this beach-shack-inspired trattoria, its waterside…

  • AZZ!

    Sorrento

    Like an Italian ‘caff’ without the greasy spoons, AZZ! delights in its simplicity. Pungent garlic bread, intense lasagna and an appetite-quenching…

  • Tandem

    Naples

    Ragù might be a Sunday-lunch staple in Naples, but laid-back Tandem serves it up all week long. Whether you're tucking into rigatoni al ragù or a ragù…

  • Gabriele

    Vico Equense

    While we find Gabriele's delizia al limone (a lemon-flavoured, sponge-based local dessert) somewhat average, there's nothing mediocre about its gelato…

  • Da Zero

    Matera

    Harnessing ingredients sourced from Slow Food producers around southern Italy, Da Zero is the best pizzeria in Matera. Interesting flavour combinations…

  • Genus Loci

    Tropea

    Dining options include a slender and modern dining room or an outside terrace with excellent views, both great locations to enjoy Genus Loci's light and…

  • Hostaria L'Oste e il Sacrestano

    Mediterranean Coast

    Feast on local meat and freshly caught seafood at this Slow Food favourite just off Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Choose from the à la carte menu of three…

  • Porta Nova

    Ostuni

    Scenically installed in the Aragonese fortifications, this terraced restaurant is a special occasion charmer. Seafood is wonderful here, with a whole…

  • Quanto Basta

    Valle d’Itria

    Craft beer and pizza make an excellent combination at this quietly stylish old town restaurant with wooden tables, soft lighting and stone floors. It's…

  • Gilberto e Vera

    Lipari

    Still run by the friendly couple who founded it four decades ago (ably assisted by daughter Alessia), this beloved shop sells two dozen varieties of…

  • Cinecittà Bar Bistrot

    Basilicata

    Vintage movie posters and a juke box packed with opera arias and 1960s soul hits combine at this welcoming cafe on Bernalda's main street. Like the…

  • Trattoria La Bussola

    Calabria

    When your dad's a fisherman, it's easy to guarantee a good supply of the freshest seafood. There's nothing pretentious about this family-owned eatery,…

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