Of all of the transformations in Dublin in recent decades, none has been so dramatic, so downright revolutionary, as how Dubliners deal with grub. Gone are the days when food was nothing more than a biological necessity to be endured: today, the city is brimming with self-appointed gourmands who know their tagines from their terrines. Food – how it’s eaten, where it’s eaten, even how it’s talked about – has become the drug of choice for many Dubliners; for them you aren’t so much what you eat as much as where you eat. And where is pretty much everywhere. The city is awash with all kinds of eateries for almost every taste and nearly every budget, each vying for a clientele no longer willing to accept shoe leather for steak with boiled-to-death vegetables.