Aramgah-e Shah-e Cheragh
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Aramgah-e Shah-e Cheragh information
Lonely Planet review
Sayyed Mir Ahmad, one of Imam Reza’s 17 brothers, was hunted down and killed by the caliphate on this site in AD 835 and his remains are housed in this glittering shrine. A mausoleum was first erected over the grave during the 12th century but most of what you see dates from the late-Qajar period and the Islamic Republic.
The expansive courtyard is a great place to sit and take in the bulbous blue-tiled dome and dazzling gold-topped minarets while discreetly observing the pious at what is one of the holiest Shiite sites in Iran. In the shrine itself, countless minute mirror tiles reflect the passion within.
In theory, non-Muslims are not allowed to enter the shrine. Enforcement seems to be mixed, but if you are polite and in a small group you may be lucky. Women must enter through a dedicated entrance and wear a chador; these can be hired from one of the old women hanging around the entrance – US$0.50 is a fair fee. Cameras are forbidden.
A recently opened museum is housed in a new building off the northwestern corner of the courtyard (next to the shrine itself) and houses an interesting collection of shrine-related objects, including some highly prized old Qurans upstairs and an absolutely exquisite door decorated with silver, gold and lapis lazuli downstairs.
In the southeastern corner is the Bogh’e-ye Sayyed Mir Mohammad , which houses the tombs of two brothers of Mir Ahmad. The shrine has the typical Shirazi bulbous dome, intricate mirror work and four slender wooden pillars, leading some to describe it as more beautiful than Shah-e Cheragh.