Getting there & away
Long-distance buses depart from Oebobo terminal on the eastern side of town – catch bemo 10. Daily departures include Soe (22, 000Rp, three hours) and Niki Niki (25, 000Rp, 3½ hours) every hour or so from 5am to 6pm; Kefamenanu (36, 000Rp, 5½ hours) and Atambua (52, 000Rp, eight hours) at 7am, 9am, noon and 5pm.
Daily direct buses (150, 000Rp one way, 11 hours) to Dili are operated by Timor Travel (881543). Call for a hotel pick-up, or they also pass by Oebobo terminal at 7am.
Bemos to villages around Kupang go from the central terminal, Kota Kupang.
Pelni ships depart from Tenau Harbour, 10km southwest of Kupang (4000Rp, bemo 12); ferries from Bolok Harbour, 13km southwest of Kupang (4000Rp, bemo 13). Expect to pay approximately 12, 000Rp for a hotel drop when coming into town by bemo.
Boats are routinely late and schedules are regularly changed, particularly during the rainy season, when the seas are much rougher.
Pelni (824357; Jl Pahlawan 3; 8.30am-3pm Mon-Sat, 9-11am Sun) is near the waterfront. Pelni’s Dobonsolo runs every two weeks directly from Bali to Kupang, and on to Kota Ambon and Papua. The fortnightly Awu sails from Kupang to Ende, Waingapu, Lombok and Bali, or Kalabahi, Larantuka and Sulawesi. The fortnightly Sirimau sails between Kupang, Alor and Makassar. The fortnightly Pangrango sails from Kupang to Surabaya via Ende, Waingapu and Bima. The Tatamailau connects Kupang with Maumere, Bima, and Benoa, and on the return trip heads to Saumlake and Tual. The monthly Kelimutu links Kupang with Ende, Waingapu, Bima and Surabaya to the west, and Papua to the east. Finally, the monthly Dorolonda links Sulawesi and Papua via Kupang.
Two other ferries provide links to Surabaya: Kirana II (leaving Monday) via Maumere (125, 000Rp), and Dharma(leaving Thursday) via Ende (115, 000Rp). Book your tickets and check schedules first via a travel agent.
From Bolok Harbour, ferries sail to Larantuka (twice weekly), Kalabahi (Tuesday and Sunday at 2pm) and Ende on Wednesday. The Ende ferry continues on to Waingapu. There’s also a weekly boat to Aimere in Flores on Thursday.
Kupang is the most important hub for air travel in Nusa Tenggara. Merpati (833833; Jl Ahmad Yani 66) flies to Denpasar (daily), Mataram (daily), Kalabahi (four times weekly), Waingapu (three weekly), Maumere (five weekly), Ende (three times weekly), Larantuka (three weekly), Lewoleba (one weekly), Atambua (two weekly) and Rote (Friday). Merpati/Air North fly to Darwin (Tuesday and Saturday).
Transnusa (822555; fax 832573; Jl Sudirman 68) has more modern planes, and flies to Denpasar (twice weekly), Kalabahi (four times weekly), Ende (four times weekly), Maumere (daily), Ruteng (four times weekly) and Waingapu (four times weekly).
Batavia Air (830555; Jl Ahmad Yani 73) flies daily to Surabaya and on to Jakarta. Lion Air (882119; El Tari airport) flies exactly the same route. Both operate flexi-fares, depending on how early you book.
Departure tax is 10, 000Rp for domestic flights and 50, 000Rp for international flights.