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Introducing Kota Ternate

Ternate is gorgeous, swathed in jungle and wild clove trees. However, when you first land there, in the shadow of spectacular Gunung Api Gamalama and with several more volcanic islands dotting the deep blue channel beyond, you may be shocked to find it such a frenetic place. Here's a growing, growling and increasingly middle-class city that tends to lure business travellers from throughout Indonesia. And that principal business appears to be government. Still, it's a worthy stopover if you care to wander rebuilt 16th-century forts, sample strangely textured yet interesting flavours, or visit those nearby isles.