Surabaya Sights

  1. Chinatown

    To the east of Jembatan Merah is Surabaya's Chinatown, with hundreds of small businesses and warehouses. Becak and hand-pulled carts are still the best way to transport goods in the crowded, narrow streets.

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  2. Kalimas Harbour

    From the old city you can then head north to the Kalimas harbour, where brightly painted pinisi from Sulawesi and Kalimantan unload their wares.

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  3. Kong Co Kong Tik Cun Ong Temple

    East of the Pasar Pabean, near the canal, the stunningly atmospheric Kong Co Kong Tik Cun Ong Temple is primarily Buddhist, but has a variety of Confucian and Taoist altars if you can see them through the plumes of incense smoke.

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  4. Mesjid Ampel

    The highlight of a visit to the old city is Mesjid Ampel, in the heart of the Arab quarter. From the Kong Co Kong Tik Cun Ong temple, proceed north along Jl Nyamplungan and then take the second left down Jl Sasak. A crowd of becak marks the way to the mosque. Through the arched stone entrance is Jl Ampel Suci, a narrow, covered bazaar with perfumes, sarongs, peci (black Muslim felt hats) and other religious paraphernalia for sale. Follow the pilgrims past the beggars to the mosque.

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  5. Monumen Kapal Selam

    In keeping with Indonesia's fascination with all things military, Surabaya's foremost stretch of renovated, waterside real estate centres around the hulk of the Pasopati , a Russian submarine commissioned into the Indonesian navy in 1962. The Pasopati itself is well maintained and there is a small landscaped park with a couple of cafés popular with young smoochers.

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  6. Old City

    Even though much of Surabaya's historical centre is literally falling to pieces, the old city easily wins the 'Most Attractive Neighbourhood' prize. With crumbling Dutch architecture, strong Chinese influences and an Arab quarter, it's also the most interesting and idiosyncratic.

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