Catedral de Santiago

The Catedral de Santiago was begun in 1542, demolished in 1668, rebuilt between 1669 and 1680, repeatedly damaged by earthquakes, wrecked in 1773, and only partly rebuilt between 1780 and 1820. The present cathedral, without its expensive original decoration, occupies only the entrance hall of the 17th-century edifice, and strictly speaking is not a cathedral but the Parroquia (Parish Church) de San José. It's most striking at night when it is tastefully lit.

More interesting by day are the remains of the main part of the cathedral, entered from 5a Calle Oriente. Slightly overhyping itself as 'the most important monument in the country,' it's nonetheless an impressive place with sweeping brick archways, massive columns and underground crypts (according to graffiti, inveterate Latino traveler Paco was here). Some statues and plasterwork remain and vegetation sprouts from cracks in walls - it's a good place to take photos for the CD cover of your goth band.

Conquistador Pedro de Alvarado, his wife Beatriz de la Cueva, their daughter Leonora de Alvarado, Guatemala's first bishop Francisco Marroquín, and the conquistador (and historian of the Spanish conquest) Bernal Díaz del Castillo, were all buried beneath the main altar, though their bones went astray at some stage in history. Behind the main altar, steps lead down to a former crypt now serving as a chapel, with a smoke-blackened Christ.