Mole National Park

Introducing Mole National Park

Face-to-face encounters with bus-sized ele­phants, plus roving gangs of baboons, wart­hogs, water bucks and antelopes – 90 species of mammals in total – are possibilities at this national park (adult/student US$4.40/2.70, still/video camera fee US$0.50/2.20), Ghana’s largest at 4660 sq km and best as far as wildlife viewing goes. It consists for the most part of flat savannah, with gallery forests along the rivers and streams. There’s one main escarpment, on which the motel and park headquarters are situated. The best time for seeing wildlife is during the harmattan season from January to March, but it’s worth a visit any time of the year.

The park entrance gate is about 4km north of the turn-off in Larabanga. The park headquarters and the motel are a further 2km into the park. Guided walks are offered twice daily, at 6.30am and 3.30pm, and cost US$1.60 per person and usually last two hours. You are not permitted to walk (or drive) in the park unless you’re accompanied by an armed ranger.

Mole Motel (22045; camping own/rented tent per person US$2.20/US$4.40, d/chalets US$19/22; ) is a strictly utilitarian boxy structure that does nothing to take advantage of its location. Run-down rooms and indifferent service aside, the views overlooking a waterhole where animals gather is worth the sacrifice. Water and electricity are sometimes in short supply. Alternatively, you can stay in Larabanga and cycle into the park for the day.

If you’re hungry, you can either chance the very slow service at the motel restaurant (meals around US$4.40) or bring your own provisions.

The reserve is 135km west of Tamale; the turn-off to the park is in Larabanga. A daily OSA bus runs from Tamale (US$4.40, four to six hours), leaving some time after 2.30pm, and arriving at the park motel around 7pm if all goes well. You really need to get your ticket a day in advance or early the morning of the departure to be assured a seat. The same bus returns to Tamale the next day, leaving the park at around 5.30am. The alternative is to take any early-morning bus from Tamale heading to Bole or Wa and get off at Larabanga, then walk, cycle or try to hitch (very difficult). Leaving Mole, your options are to take the OSA bus from the motel to Tamale or to make your way to Larabanga, from where there is infrequent transport in either direction.

Last updated: Mar 2, 2009