Things to do in La Rochelle
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Defensive Towers
To protect the harbour at night in times of war, an enormous chain was raised between the two 14th-century stone towers at the harbour entrance to La Rochelle, giving rise to the name Tour de la Chaîne (Chain Tower). There are superb views from the top and a whizz-bang new permanent exhibit about the Canadian voyagers.
Across the harbour it's also possible to climb the 36m-high, pentagonal Tour St-Nicolas.
So named because of its role as the harbour's lighthouse (lit by an enormous candle), and one of the oldest of its kind in the world, the conical 15th-century Tour de la Lanterne is also referred to as Tour des Quatre Sergents in memory of four local sergeants, two of wh…
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Aquarium
La Rochelle's number-one tourist attraction is this state-of-the-art family-friendly aquarium. A visit begins by descending in a clunky old 'submarine' to the ocean floor, where you step out into a tunnel of fluoro jellyfish waving their tentacles in time to the classical music that wafts through the aquarium. Other highlights include the huge open ocean aquarium full of UFO-like rays and fearsome sharks, the jungle area with its tree-level walkways and ponds full of teeth-gnashing piranhas, the elegantly dancing seahorses, timid turtles and the bizarre half-newt, total fish mudskippers. The aim is to educate visitors to the wonders of the world's waters and the threats o…
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Towers
La Rochelle's three defensive towers can be visited individually, or on a combined ticket.
To protect the harbour at night in times of war, an enormous chain was raised between the two 14th-century stone towers at the harbour entrance, giving rise to the name of Tour de la Chaîne ('chain tower'). There are some informative exhibits on the history of the local Protestant community, and superb views from the top.
Across the harbour it's also possible to climb the 36m-high, pentagonal Tour St-Nicolas.
So named because of its role as the harbour's lighthouse (lit by an enormous candle), and one of the oldest of its kind in the world, the conical 15th-century Tour de la Lante…
reviewed
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Island Hopping
Several islands are scattered around La Rochelle, including the nearby Île de Ré, as well as a trio further south.
Accessible only by boat, the tiny crescent-shaped Île d'Aix (pronounced 'eel dex'), 16km due south of La Rochelle, has some blissful beaches. Between the Île d'Aix and the larger Île d'Oléron (linked to the mainland by a free bridge) is the fortress-island Fort Boyard, built during the first half of the 19th century.
Inter-Îles has sailings from Easter to early November to Fort Boyard (adult/child €18.50/11.50), Île d'Aix (€27/17.50) and Île d'Oléron (€27/17.50), plus sailings to Île de Ré (€18.50/11.50) from Easter to September.
La Rochelle'…
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Islands
Several islands are scattered around La Rochelle, including the nearby Île de Ré as well as a trio further offshore. The car-free, crescent-shaped Île d'Aix (pronounced 'eel dex'), 16km due south of La Rochelle, has some blissful beaches. Between the Île d'Aix and Île d'Oléron is the fortress-island Fort Boyard, built during the first half of the 19th century and these days best known (in France at least) as the location for the 'adventure' TV show of the same name, which is filmed here each summer. When the weather's clear, you can see La Rochelle in the distance.
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Toy Museums
A treat for kids (and kids-at-heart) is the Musée des Automates (Automation Museum), a small theme-park-style display showing 300 automated dolls from the last two centuries, including a near-life-size re-creation of bygone Montmartre in Paris, right down to the Moulin Rouge and the funicular railway. Trainspotters will love the equally appealing Musée des Modèles Réduits (Scale Model Museum) next door, with miniature cars, computer-automated naval battles and a tootling model railway. Both museums are wheelchair accessible.
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Le Soleil Brille Pour Tout Le Monde
There's a distinctly bohemian air to this excellent little place, decked out in hippy colours. Some highly original (often vegetarian-based) dishes originate from the kitchen, much of them inspired by the tropical French islands of Réunion and Martinique. As much as possible, all the produce used here comes from the nearby market and you can really tell – plus it's one of those all-too-rare French restaurants not afraid to experiment with spices. Advance reservations are essential.
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André
Opened in the 1950s as a small seafood café, André grew so popular it began buying adjacent shops. There's now a maze of interconnecting rooms, each with its own individual ambience (like a portholed cabin) but all serving succulent seafood caught the night before. You can choose your fanciful denizens of the deep from the display tables outside: 'Hello, Mr Crab, you look tasty. I'm going to gobble you up,' and with that he'll be thrown in a pan of hot water.
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Les Quatre Sergents
Set inside a beautifully tiled, historic former greenhouse, it's still a jungle in here today with plants scrambling upward to the height of trees. Don't worry though, nothing else about this place is as untamed as the Congo; this is the city's premier address for white-tableclothed elegance and gastronomic French fare such as frogs' legs in a creamy pineau (sweet white wine with a Cognac base) sauce.
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Le Café de la Aquarium
The Aquarium's café serves refined regional cuisine using whatever's in season locally (including a surprising amount of seafood!). There are great harbour views from the dining room and, if that weren't enough, you can also watch giant sharks cruising about – a selling point we're pretty sure nowhere else in La Rochelle can match! The café is open to nonaquarium visitors as well, but sadly you can't leave the aquarium for lunch and re-enter on the same ticket.
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Musée Maritime Neptunea
Moored at Bassin des Chalutiers are the two ships comprising the Musée Maritime Neptunea: the meteorological research vessel France 1, and Angoumois, a chalutier (fishing boat). A land-based extension of the museum on the adjacent dock incorporates a section dedicated to Jacques Cousteau, and a re-creation of the city's ancient fish market.
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Les Flots
You'll feel like you're floating in the water at this place by the Tour de la Chaîne with fabulous port views and sunshine streaming in through timber-framed windows. Another string in chef Grégory Coutanceau's bow (he also has several other restaurants, and a catering sideline), this place is especially renowned for its stylishly presented seafood.
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Temple Protestant
The austere Temple Protestant was built in the late 17th century, though it became a Protestant church only after the Revolution. After the St Bartholomew's Day Massacre of 1572, many surviving Huguenots took refuge in La Rochelle before the city was besieged in 1627 by Louis XIII's forces under the command of Cardinal Richelieu.
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Musée Maritime
Moored at Bassin à Flot are the meteorological research ship France 1, a chalutier (fishing boat) and a tug, which together make up the Musée Maritime. If you think your job is tough, just wait until you see what the crew on these sorts of boats have to put up with on the average working day.
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Food n' Bar
Hipsters head to this ultra-contemporary new restaurant/lounge bar of streamlined metal, and ultra-low UV-style lights in subtly changing shades of pink, blue, red and green to quaff on cocktails, champagne and nouvelle cuisine (no, you can't see it under those lights, but hey, it tastes great).
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Le Comptoir des Voyages
This chic place - done out with rattan chairs, palms and red walls - takes you on a stylish world tour of international flavours, infusing regional produce cooked according to traditional techniques under the direction of chef Grégory Coutanceau, and accompanied by a global wine list.
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Hôtel de Ville
Flanked by a 15th-century Flamboyant Gothic wall and a resplendent 17th-century Renaissance-style courtyard, the Hôtel de Ville has guided tours in French at 3pm daily in June and September, 3pm and 4pm daily in July and August, and on weekends during the rest of the year.
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Musée des Automates
Musée des Automates is a small theme-park-style display with good wheelchair access showing 300 automated dolls from the last two centuries, including a near-life-size re-creation of bygone Montmartre in Paris, right down to the Moulin Rouge and funicular railway.
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Café de la Paix
A visual feast as much as a dining one, this belle-époque brasserie-bar serves up traditional cuisine like beef, duck, foie gras and fish, as well as breakfasts and afternoon teas amid the splendour of soaring frescoed ceilings and gold-edged arched mirrors.
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Teatro Bettini
Combining a strong Italian influence with an even stronger Rochelais spirit (the owner's likeness appears in the Michelangelo paintings adorning the walls), fare at this decades-old, much-loved restaurant includes a hearty lasagne and seafood.
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rue du Palais
The grand arch of Tour de la Grosse Horloge leads to the arcaded rue du Palais ,La Rochelle's main shopping street, lined with 17th- and 18th-century shipowners' homes. Two blocks to the east, rue des Merciers is also lined with arcades.
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Musée des Modèles Réduits
Trainspotters will love the Musée des Modèles Réduits, with miniature cars, computer-automated naval battles, and a tootling model railway. In July and August, children under 10 can ride aboard a little train.
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Lulu
Decorated in striking shades of fuchsia, Lulu is La Rochelle's grooviest restaurant, with a hip young team in the kitchen turning out gourmet fare and a lounge vibe that comes into its own during regular piano soirées.
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Inter-Îles
Inter-Îles has sailings from Easter to early November to Fort Boyard (adult/child €18.50/11.50), Île d’Aix (€27/17.50) and Île d’Oléron (€27/17.50), plus sailings to Île de Ré (€18.50/11.50) from Easter to September.
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L'Estamient
Built into the market walls, this family-run place has a convivial atmosphere and draws plenty of regulars with its tasty and filling lunch menus comprising all the French bistro standards. Book ahead at lunchtime.
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